Coastal to Country: A Journey Through Northern Tuscany and Liguria

Sun-Kissed Shores: Coastal Gems Loved by Americans

From the turquoise waters of the Ligurian and Tuscan coasts to the forested hills of Lunigiana, this part of Italy offers a blend of refined seaside relaxation and earthy inland adventure. While iconic coastal towns like Monterosso al Mare, Forte dei Marmi, and Portofino have long drawn American visitors with their postcard beauty, an inland journey just a short drive away opens the door to an entirely different experience: wild nature, medieval villages, and the thrill of truffle hunting.

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The Italian Riviera and northern Tuscany’s coastline are renowned for their captivating mix of glamour and authenticity. In Liguria, the Cinque Terre stands out as a perennial favorite. Among its five villages, Monterosso al Mare offers the widest beaches and the most accommodation options, making it especially attractive to American travelers seeking comfort and accessibility. The town retains a timeless charm with its pastel buildings, fresh seafood restaurants, and the ever-inviting Ligurian Sea. Vernazza, another Cinque Terre gem, captivates with its narrow streets and dramatic harbor views. For those with a sense of adventure, the coastal trails linking the villages are among the most rewarding hikes in Europe, offering breathtaking views over terraced vineyards and craggy cliffs.

Further up the coast, Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino represent the more refined side of seaside life. Santa Margherita strikes a balance between laid-back charm and elegance, while Portofino, though smaller, offers a luxurious escape where yachts bob gently in a crescent-shaped harbor framed by lush hills. These towns are known for their chic boutiques, seafood cuisine, and the sort of relaxed glamour that has made them staples in the Italian travel dreamscape.

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In Tuscany, the beach scene takes on a more spacious and sun-drenched character. Forte dei Marmi is the epitome of elegance with its tree-lined avenues, white sand beaches, and a clientele that appreciates both style and discretion. It’s not unusual to see vintage bicycles parked outside boutique fashion stores, or families enjoying aperitivo as the sun sets behind the Apuan Alps. Viareggio offers a slightly different flavor—still beachy and beautiful, but more accessible, youthful, and vibrant. Its long promenade, lined with gelaterie, restaurants, and art deco architecture, buzzes with activity throughout the summer.

Into the Hills: Discovering Lunigiana

Truffle hunt is lunigiana, woodland excursion

These coastal destinations provide not only stunning views and world-class food but also an entry point into the lesser-known and richly rewarding inland area of Lunigiana. Tucked between the Apennines and the Apuan Alps, Lunigiana feels like a secret whispered by the mountains. Here, the landscape changes: coastal breezes give way to chestnut groves, stone villages, and rivers that have carved dramatic gorges through the hillsides.

Nature lovers will find much to explore in Lunigiana. The Stretti di Giaredo is a geological marvel—a narrow canyon formed by the Gordana river, surrounded by vertical rock walls and crystal-clear waters. It’s a haven for those who enjoy hiking, canyoning, or simply marveling at untouched natural beauty. The canyon is accessible through guided treks that typically include a combination of walking, wading, and sometimes swimming, offering an exhilarating yet family-friendly adventure.

For a quieter, more contemplative encounter with Lunigiana’s flora, the Orto Botanico dei Frignoli near Fivizzano presents a high-altitude garden that curates the botanical heritage of the region. Spanning seven hectares, the garden showcases a variety of plant species native to the Apennines and the Apuan Alps, including medicinal herbs, alpine flowers, and ancient trees. Walking through its pathways offers not only beauty but insight into the deep natural richness of the region.

Lunigiana is also a land of castles, monasteries, and old Roman roads. Villages such as Bagnone, Filetto, and Pontremoli are filled with architectural and historical intrigue. Stone bridges, narrow cobbled streets, and Romanesque churches evoke centuries past, yet life in these towns is anything but static. Local festivals, open-air markets, and trattorias serve as vibrant reminders that these communities are alive and welcoming.

A Culinary Treasure: Truffle Hunting in Lunigiana

Truffle hunt is lunigiana, woodland excursion

No trip to Lunigiana would be complete without delving into its culinary roots, particularly its relationship with one of Italy’s most prized delicacies: the truffle. The forests of Lunigiana are rich in both black and white truffles, depending on the season. From January to April, the Marzuolo or Bianchetto truffle is in season. May to August brings the black summer truffle, and from September through December, the sought-after white truffle takes center stage.

Truffle hunting in Lunigiana is more than a foraging excursion—it’s a cultural ritual. Local guides, often truffle hunters for generations, lead visitors through oak and hazelnut groves with the help of expertly trained dogs. Along the way, hunters explain the ecology of the truffle and its role in regional cuisine. Most excursions end with a tasting or even a meal centered around the day’s harvest—think fresh pasta dressed in shaved truffle, truffle-infused cheeses, and local wines to match.

Unlike the more commercial truffle experiences found in other parts of Italy, Lunigiana’s offerings feel authentic and intimate. Visitors often describe the excursions as a highlight of their trip, not just for the culinary experience, but for the chance to slow down and connect with nature and local tradition in a deeply personal way.

Planning the Perfect Coastal-to-Country Itinerary

Traveling from the coast to Lunigiana is straightforward. From Pietrasanta, Forte dei Marmi, or even the Cinque Terre, a drive of 60 to 90 minutes transports you into this tranquil world. Renting a car is highly recommended, as public transportation is limited in the hilly interior. The transition is striking: one moment you’re gazing at the horizon over the Ligurian Sea; the next, you’re weaving through forested valleys and past medieval towers.

In essence, combining the coast with a foray into Lunigiana provides a travel experience rich in contrast and depth. The sea offers sun, style, and salt air. The hills promise history, flavor, and quiet wonder. For American travelers, especially those who have already seen the big cities of Italy, this coastal-to-country journey offers something fresh and unforgettable.

Whether you’re sipping limoncello by the beach in Vernazza or sharing a meal with a truffle hunter in a forest clearing near Pontremoli, this region of Italy reveals its soul slowly—but rewardingly—for those willing to follow both the road and their senses inland.

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