Al Gatto Verde di Modena: The Evolving Passion of Massimo Bottura

In Emilia-Romagna, food is never just food. It is memory, habit, and identity rolled into one. So when Massimo Bottura opens a new restaurant in the countryside outside Modena, expectations are inevitably high. Al Gatto Verde di Casa Maria Luigia is his latest project—intimate in scale, confident in intent, and quietly ambitious rather than showy.

The Region: Emilia-Romagna

Emilia-Romagna has long been considered the backbone of Italian cuisine. Parmigiano Reggiano, traditional balsamic vinegar, tortellini, and fresh pasta are not specialties here—they are daily life. Any restaurant operating in this region is, by default, in conversation with centuries of culinary tradition.

Massimo Bottura

Bottura hardly needs an introduction. As the chef behind Osteria Francescana, he has spent decades rethinking what Italian cuisine can be, without ever severing its roots. His cooking has always balanced respect for tradition with intellectual curiosity, often using memory, art, and social themes as ingredients in their own right.

Al Gatto Verde di Casa Maria Luigia

Located within the grounds of Casa Maria Luigia, Al Gatto Verde feels less like a “concept restaurant” and more like a natural extension of Bottura’s world. The focus is clearly Emilian, but filtered through a modern, international lens—guided day-to-day by chef Jessica Rosval.

This is not a place built around spectacle. Instead, it invites diners to slow down and pay attention: to ingredients, technique, and the quiet dialogue between past and present. Familiar dishes appear in unfamiliar forms, not to shock, but to provoke curiosity.

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The Setting

Surrounded by countryside, the restaurant occupies a refined yet relaxed space. Rustic elements sit comfortably alongside contemporary design, creating an atmosphere that feels deliberate but never stiff. The service mirrors this approach—professional, attentive, and informal enough to let the food take centre stage.

Rather than overwhelming diners with ceremony, the experience unfolds naturally, course by course, with staff guiding rather than instructing.

Some dishes worth exploring:

1. Anguilla Emiliana – European eel marinated in saba, paired with sweet onions. Deeply rooted in Emilian flavours, yet unexpectedly delicate.
2. Cod Verde – A loose reinterpretation of baccalà à la Brás, finished with a green zabaglione that brings balance and finesse.
3. Tortellino al Forno – Baked tortellini coated in a cream of 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano, playing with texture rather than nostalgia.
4. Non è una Cozza – Blue crab masquerading as a mussel, paired with pork belly and black apple. A clever reflection on invasive species and illusion.
5. Borlengo di Acqua di Porcini – A modern take on a mountain classic, enriched with porcini and black truffle.
6. Cotechino Sangue di Drago – Tradition reworked with sweet-and-sour plum and hibiscus.
7. Agnello da Montreal a San Damaso – Lamb that bridges Rosval’s Canadian roots with Modenese flavours, accompanied by peach mostarda and toasted bread.
8. Pasta Arsa – A risotto-style burnt pasta recalling Spanish influences, enriched with rib meat, maple syrup, and pistachio.

Desserts

• Melon Lemon – Light and refreshing, built around white melon and citrus.
• Cielo Terra Mare – A bold composition of sea water, caviar, coal, raspberry, and rose—challenging but thoughtfully constructed.

Al Gatto Verde is not about grand statements or culinary fireworks. It is quieter than that—more reflective. The food speaks in layers, rewarding attention rather than demanding applause. For those interested in how Emilian cuisine continues to evolve without losing its soul, this is one of the most interesting tables in the Modena area right now.