Who is Massimo Bottura?

A true son of Emilia Romagna, the culinary capital of Italy, Massimo Bottura was born in Modena in September 1962 and is one of a growing band of innovative chefs that are pushing the boundaries of food and dining as we have come to know them. Massimo’s first experience of food and ingredients came from the many hours he claims he spent under his grandmother’s kitchen table, where he went to seek refuge from his older brothers. Here, at her knee, his great love affair with all things culinary began, and he took the first steps of his journey to the culinary excellence that would one day see his restaurant receiving no less than 3 Michelin stars.

A bit about his background.

Massimo did not initially set out to become a chef; he was studying law in 1986, when he heard that a roadside trattoria on the outskirts of Modena was for sale. He decided to take a break from his studies, bought and renovated the building and a week later he opened his first restaurant, the Trattoria del Campazzo; the rest, as they say, is history and the law faculty’s loss was the Culinary world’s gain.

It was not an overnight success story for Massimo Bottura, but rather a journey of discovery as he first apprenticed with Chef Georges Cogny, where the foundations of his culinary knowledge were laid down with a good grounding in the principles of regional Italian cooking combined with classic French cuisine. He later worked with renowned chefs Alain Ducasse (Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo) and Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame in Spain.

Massimo opens his restaurant in his home town: Modena.

In 1995 he opened Osteria Francescana in the medieval city centre of his home town, Modena, with the intention of combining contemporary art, traditional Italian cuisine and his now-renowned innovative genius. In the following years Massimo and Osteria Francescana received numerous awards, including his first Michelin Star in 2002. A second star followed in 2006 and in 2012 he received his third Michelin star, making him one of only 7 Italian chefs to have been so honoured.
In addition, Osteria Francescana was named the Best Italian Restaurant in the world, and the 4th Best Restaurant in the World in 2011, on The World’s 50 Best Restaurant List. In the latest list for 2013, he has climbed yet another rung of the ladder and is placed at no 3!

The signature dishes of Massimo Bottura.

And the food, you may ask… Massimo himself describes each of his innovative dishes as being a reconstruction of an idea, a memory or a smile, and since he has lived in Modena all his life, the region plays an important role in his food. To whet your appetite, here are a couple of the dishes which will be served for his New Year’s Eve dinner – dedicated to his friends around the world with inspiring dishes from all corners of the globe. From Italy comes Sea urchin spaghetti in the Neopolitan tradition with aglio, olio e peperoncino (olive oil, garlic and chilli), from France there is Foie gras and white truffle (a marriage of French and Italian delicacies) in an Emilian ravioli. Nordic countries are represented by the Aurora borealis dish – porcini, black truffles, chestnuts, chocolate and pumpkin beneath a blanket of leaves.

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Massimo at a recent food event in Modena

Modena and Reggio Emilia: find REAL Balsamic Vinegar

There is still a lot of confusion about what constitutes a genuine Balsamic vinegar, or Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, to give this Italian “black gold” its  correct name. After all, anyone can walk into their local supermarket and find a string of different vinegars all bearing the name Balsamic Vinegar of Modena; this is confusing I know, but do not be fooled – this is a cheaper “imitation” and nothing at all like the product it tries to imitate. Most of cheaper bottles will contain cooked grape juice and ordinary red wine vinegar, and sometimes thickeners and caramel to sweeten and colour. These products are regulated by IGP labelling and producers can add these additives to obtain the right colour or density. Most of them are pleasant enough to use for salad dressing, and slightly sweeter than regular red wine vinegar.

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Traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, in its typical bottle.

What is real traditional balsamic vinegar then?

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, by contrast, is regulated every step of the way through the production and aging process and may only be produced in two areas, Modena and Reggio Emilia in the north of Italy, which is where you should go to find it and see how it is made. The best way to be sure that you are finding the real thing is to go on a Balsamic Tour to one of the producers, where you will learn all about the production process and how to recognise the genuine product. There are about 160 producers in the two regions, who make a total of just 75,000 bottles a year. The vinegar is made in the traditional age-old way, using mainly trebbiano grapes grown locally. The vinegar is aged in a succession of wooden barrels which become smaller and smaller until it has been maturing for at least 12 years, the minimum acceptable aging period for a Tradizionale Balsamic. At this stage the vinegar will be tasted by the regulatory body, the Consorzio to which the producer belongs, and if it is passed it will be labelled affinato, indicating a young Balsamic, and is bottled with a white top, in both Modena and Reggio Emilia.

Extra old balsamic vinegars in Modena and Reggio Emilia.

About 30 – 40% of the product is then further aged until it reaches 25 or even 30 years old. A really well matured over 25 year old Balsamic is labelled extra vecchio (very old) and will be bottled with a gold top in both regions. In Reggio Emilia, there is a third designation for vinegars that have been matured for at least 18 years – they are labelled vecchio (old) and bottled with a gold top. The bottle shapes are also distinctive for each region; in Modena they use a rounded globe-shaped bottle with a rectangular base and a long neck, while the Reggio Emilia bottle is straighter and has a slightly flared base.

Many of the producers (acetaia) in the Modena and Reggio Emilia region are very happy to take you on a tour of their establishments, but most will require advance booking if you are not part of a tour. Acetaia di Giorgio is one of the producers in Modena who will give you a genuine welcome and an excellent tour, including the chance to taste several different balsamics, while in Reggio Emilia, Acetaia Medici is a good choice since they not only make excellent Balsamic, but also several wonderful wines.

Emilia Delizia will be delighted to organise a traditional balsamic tour for your group, big or small. Our company can organise an all inclusive day with transport and English speaking guide, departing from Bologna, Modena, Reggio Emilia and Parma.

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The 3 ageing of the traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia

Emilia Delizia accepts Bitcoins for your travel in Italy.

How To Travel In Italy With Bitcoins

Emilia Delizia now accept bitcoins for your travel booking in Italy. Most of our activities can now be booked with bitcoins rather than using  traditional credit cards. Emilia Delizia is happy to grant a discount to all clients paying with the digital currency.

Bitcoin is virtual cash  (cryptocurrency) that has been adopted by thousands of people around the world for trade and online purchases. Like any other currency it can serve many purposes, but one of the best ways to use this e-money is to cover travel expenses. Without having to carry a credit card or paper money, you can now make direct payments from your own web-based bitcoin wallet. Quick and secure transactions allow booking hotel rooms, singing into sightseeing and gourmet tours and even taking part in Ferrari test drives. Besides, our guests who choose to pay with bitcoins get a 5% discount.

So, how exactly do you benefit from using bitcoin while travelling in Italy?

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Book Accommodation: Hotel or Apartment Stay

Paying with a credit card or wire transfer mostly requires participation of a third party – a credit card company, the bank or an online payment service organization. The transactional fees in this case can get way too high especially with large amounts such as a hotel room reservation. Using bitcoins may significantly reduce the extra charges: since all communication is done directly between the client and the merchant the operational costs are comparatively low. Once you have chosen the dates and the accommodation type it is a matter or 10-20 minutes until the transaction is approved. You should only remember that bitcoin payments are irreversible and once it has been made there is no way to claim your money back.

Sign Up For a Ferrari Test Drive with bitcoins

Driving a real Ferrari is a dream of many and now that you are visiting the legendary car’s homeland you can make this dream come true. Emilia Delizia offers a lifetime opportunity: taking a Ferrari test drive with more than five different car models available. After having picked up the desired car type and race duration you can pay with bitcoins and reserve a place right away. The transactions are extremely prompt and can be completed within 20 minutes or even less. One of the best parts about using bitcoins is that an order can be processed from your laptop, smartphone or tablet – all you need is access to the digital wallet and an internet connection.

Join Culinary Tours and food experience – with Bitcoin

During vacation in Italy you might want to get exposed to some of the country’s authentic culinary experiences and participate in the locally guided food tours. Also here, paying with bitcoins is a straightforward and inexpensive way to get quickly enrolled into the next cheese production tour, visit one of the food factories or take a cooking class by the local specialist.

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Keeping your money safe while on a trip is an issue that concerns every traveler. Over the last few years since its inception Bitcoin has proven to be an efficient and trusted way to pay and accept payments. This internet cyber currency is an elegant solution for maintaining secure bookings and purchases from any location and any electronic device. Whether it is a night in a hotel or a two-hour city tour –it all can be paid on the spot within minutes using the digital cash.

Enjoy the fish festivals: eat eels in Comacchio and blue fish in Cesenatico

Even if Emilia Romagna is famous for tortellini and Parma ham, you are wrong if you think that is all about it. The region is so wide and varied that you can find many culinary secrets well worth to be uncovered. Read on to see how strong is the fishing tradition in Emilia Romagna and how many gourmet events you shouldn’t miss.

Emilia Delizia selected for you the Sagra dell’Anguilla celebrating the eel fishing tradition in the town of Comacchio and the Fish Festival of Cesenatico, a nice tourist destination featuring the typical fish of the Adriatic Sea every year.

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Eel Festival in Comacchio

This autumn, let be tempted by the sinuous queen of the lagoons, the European Eel whose image of Comacchio is ofter associated with. This town characterized by charming canals in the town centre, practices the eel fishing from ancient times and it has been the main source of income for centuries.

Situated in the Valli di Comacchio, this area of wetlands is formed by brackish lagoons which are part of the Regional Park of the Po Delta. We recommend to book a tour aboard boats to learn more about the eel and the fishing activity traditionally run in the typical “Casoni”.

From 1999 Comacchio celebrates the eel, delicious protagonist of many typical dishes, at the annual Eel Festival – Sagra dell’Anguilla. This event is part of the Wine & Food Festival Emilia Romagna and gives you the opportunity to taste not only the eel but other gourmet fishes such as sea bass, gilt head bream and other products of the region in the first two weekends of October.

To taste the deep flavour of eel, order a dish of eel soup – accompanied by polenta – or grilled eel when you have dinner at a typical restaurant.

Fish Festival in Cesenatico

If you would like to combine a gastronomic tour with a stroll in a relaxing harbour, head to Cesenatico, about one hour drive from Bologna. This is a perfect place to enjoy the gentle Adriatic Sea breeze and enter in a typical restaurant to taste the “poor” fish, the traditional food eaten by locals for centuries.

Being already famous among summer travelers for its great beaches and numerous seaside resorts, Cesenatico is more than a summer destination. The town holds a strong gastronomic tradition celebrated during the Fish Festival in autumn, usually organized between the end of October and the beginning of November.

The festival, named “Il Pesce fa Festa” in Italian, features about 80 stalls promoting food and wine of the area, a fish market, tasting tours along the Canal Port and the quaint town centre. This event is the right occasion to enjoy the so-called “blue fish” of the Adriatic Sea, well known for its important organoleptic qualities and unique taste.

To visit

If you love to learn more about the fishing tradition of the Adriatic coast, you should schedule a visit to the Museo del Carico della Nave Romana, the Manifattura dei Marinati – located in Comacchio – and the Museo della Marineria dell’Alto e Medio Adriatico – based in Cesenatico.

 

How Many Kinds of Parmigiano Reggiano are out there?

There are really stringent laws governing what kind of cheese can be called Parmigiano Reggiano, so in fact the answer to the question should be: Only one kind – Parmesan cheeses produced in the regions which are covered by the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO (protected designation of origin). In reality, however, it is a little more complicated! Let me try to explain about the variations that can be found amongst cheeses that all proudly bear the PDO stamp which proclaims to the world that they are genuine Parmesan cheeses from the PDO region, which includes Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua and Bologna.

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It may surprise you to know that there are about 420 creameries within this designated region, and these “parmesan factories” receive their milk from over four thousand farms every day. Inevitably, there will be a large variation in the end product from all these dairies, due to the season, altitude, breed of cattle and expertise of the cheese-maker. Another factor that hugely influences the final cheese is the period of maturation; the minimum time required for a cheese to fulfil the stringent appellation requirements is 12months, but some cheese wheels spend up to 36 months in the maturation cellars, during which time there is a very noticeable change in the taste and character of the cheese.

Factors which influence the final product are:

Maturation: at 12 months this medium-fat semi-hard cheese will have a pale cream colour, taste slightly salty, slightly acid and slightly sweet, and have a wonderful nutty fragrance – Parmigiano is never a smelly cheese! There is a slight grainy texture, one of the distinctive characteristics of this King of Cheeses. At 18 months, the texture has changed as more crystals develop and the straw colour of the cheese is a shade darker; the flavour is becoming more savoury and the fragrance has become a little fruity. The flavours and aroma of the cheese continue to deepen and mature, and the colour gets progressively darker. By 30+ months the cheese is fully mature, a golden straw colour with many crystals and can have woody, spicy, and dried-fruit flavours on your palate. The rind will be really hard at this stage.

Altitude: At higher altitudes, the dairy herd has access to sweeter, greener grass (Parmigiano herds are never fed anything other than grass!) and purer water, resulting in the cheese from the mountains (Parmigiano di Montagna) having a subtly deeper flavour. Many cheese connoisseurs also believe that cheeses made in Spring and Autumn are also superior due to the improved feed at these times of the year. Since each wheel is date-stamped, it is easy for cheese buyers to select cheeses made at these time of the year.

The Herd: if you are faming cattle for the meat market you choose good beef producing breeds, and likewise milk producers for the famous Parmigiano cheese production rely on superior milk-producing cows. In this region the most favoured breed is the Alpine Brown, bred exclusively in the mountainous areas. Recently “red cows” as they are locally known are making a coming back. The Rossa di Parma is native cow of the area and it produces a superior milk. These animals produce the very best balance of quality and quantity of milk – a really superior product just perfect for the production of a really superior cheese.

So, to get back to the original question – there is only one type of cheese that may be called Parmigiano Reggiano, produced in the areas covered by the PDO, but within the parameters set there can be fairly wide variations in the appearance, aroma and taste (and price!) of your slice of Parmigiano.

Novemberpork Festival in Parma

The worst place on earth if you are a pig…

In the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, the humble pig is so revered that an entire month of festivals is dedicated to the gastronomic delights of pork. It is quite understandable! The pig provides the raw product for one of Italy’s most sought-after exports, Parma Ham, but the story of the pig does not end with Parma Ham, and at this month-long festival you will find out how many other great pork delicacies are produced in the region. There are also demonstrations of how the carcass is divided up and how all the various cuts are processed – this event is not for vegetarians, who should perhaps give this festival a miss and rather visit one of the many other attractions of the region!

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The symbol of Novemberpork – Zibello province of Parma

The November Pork festival, takes place each weekend for the month of November, and each stage is hosted by a different village along the Street of Culatello, (or the Pork Road), starting in Sissa, with “The Flavours of Pork” event. At each stage, the village butchers compete to produce the biggest, longest or heaviest product, which is why the competition is said to be the “greediest” of all food festivals in Italy.

Sissa – The annual “November Pork” fair starts in Sissa on the first weekend of November. On the Friday night there are live concerts and festivities and on the Saturday visitors are tempted by a market of typical products of the area, which include not only pork but also many organic products, fish, teas, spices and spirits. The music and entertainment continues late into the night. Sunday is the day everyone is waiting for – there are demonstrations of cheese making and the making of salamis and other pork products, before everyone gets to taste the giant Mariolone (a type of cooked salami) that the local butchers have been making all weekend.

Polesine Parmense – on the second weekend of the month the festival moves down the road to the village of Polesine Parmense, where it takes much the same form as the previous weekend, with music, dozens of market stalls and this time the star of the show is the Prete(Priest – this is made from the cured meat of the pork shoulder and knuckle, all rolled up in strips of pork rind into a triangular shape, reminiscent of a Priest’s hat) Usually it is a modest sized salami, but for this festival the butchers make the biggest one they can! It is baked and distributed(for free!) to everyone on the banks of the River Po. Of course, it is all washed down with a great local Fortana wine.

Zibello – is the village where the festivities take place on the third weekend, and this time the starring product is the Salame Strolghino; this is a “thin” salami, very delicate in flavour, traditionally made from the trimming of the large pear-shaped Culatello salami, which is locally known as the King of Salumi”. At November Pork, the local butchers of Zibello try to make the longest ever Strolghino to feed the many visitors. And I mean long…sometimes it can be up to several hundred metres!

Roccabianca – is the last village to host the November Pork competition and there are all sorts of extra events to mark the end of the celebrations. These include the “Pork Hot Feet” race, a Christmas Market and, of course, the tasting of the giant Cicciolata (this type of salami is more like a meat-loaf; it is made with some of the best pork cuts, generously flavoured with spices and then set in a loaf-shape, and served with hot polenta).

Each weekend, in addition to all the market stalls where you can buy local products, you can also visit regional restaurants, many of which feature special menus to showcase pork dishes from the region. Also in November, there is a black truffle festival in Parma, a Cheese Fair in Talamello(Rimini), and an olive oil festival in Ravenna, making November one of the very best times of the year to visit Emilia Romagna.

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Culatello hams produced in Zibello – 30 km from Parma

 

Edible Souvenirs from Emilia Romagna

No trip to Emilia Romagna, the gastronomic capital of Italy, would be complete without taking home some edible souvenirs! This is particularly the case if you have had time to attend a cookery class and learnt how to prepare some of the local specialities. Many of the wonderful ingredients that you can find on every street corner in this part of Italy are just not available outside the country, and if you are lucky enough to find the genuine article, it will cost a great deal more than here, where it is produced. Not only can you amaze your friends back home when you serve them some of the dishes, but these delectable edible souvenirs make great gifts for all your “foodie” friends! Here are some of the main treats to look out for when doing your shopping for food souvenirs, but I am sure you will find several others to add to this list.

Parmesan Cheese – the REAL thing! No doubt you will have been on a tour to see how Parmegiano-Reggiano is produced, and will know how to tell if the product you are buying is the genuine article. This is one of the most popular exports from the region and it is easy to take some home with you, as it can be transported for a short time without refrigeration.

Balsamic Vinegar – a beautiful syrupy aged Balsamic vinegar from Modena makes a wonderful food souvenir for yourself (it is rather pricey, but well-worth the extravagance), or a really special friend. You can buy Balsamic vinegars that have been aged for over 25 years, but a more modest 12 year-old product is more affordable and you should not leave without a few bottles of this truly artisanal product.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Brisighella – this is no ordinary Olive Oil, but a really special product produced in the hilly valleys of the Tosco-Romagnolo mountains, where geography and climate come together to produce ideal conditions for Olives. The resultant oil produced in this region has a very distinctive emerald green colour, low acidity and a wonderful mouth-feel. The oil exhibits a medium to strong fruitiness with a slightly bitter aftertaste with the distinct impression of herbs and almonds.

Nocino Liquor from Modena – a popular and delightful liquor made from unripe walnuts, originating in Modena. There are many versions of this tipple, and many local people make their own batch each year. The commercially available product makes a great gift or souvenir to take home with you.

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The making of nocino with unripe wallnuts. Source

Salt from Cervia – is another unique product to tuck into your suitcase. The salt flats of Cervia have been producing salt for centuries, by means of channelling the Mediterranean Sea water into a series of salt pans, where the water is allowed to evaporate naturally, producing a less-processed form of table salt which still retains traces of other minerals such as iron, magnesium, calcium and potassium as well as iodine. It is a healthier and cleaner type of salt, and makes a great gift. The town also produces various other salt-related products, such as salt chocolates and several beauty preparations which also make interesting and unusual gifts for souvenirs.

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Tourists can visit the salt beds in Cervia – source

 

Supercars, Super Foods of Modena

Connoisseurs of wonderful cars and superb cuisine will find a holiday in the delightful medieval town of Modena in northern Italy most rewarding.  Modena and near-by Parma are the home of Italy’s greatest exports, Parma Ham, Parmesan Cheese, Balsamic vinegar and, of course, Ferrari and Maserati.  Plan your next holiday to include enough time in this region to get a true taste of some of the best that Italy has to offer.  Here are some of the attractions that you must include in your holiday plans.

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Cathedral of Modena

Hombre Farm – Motorvalley Panini Collection Tour.

Matteo Panini is a young farmer in the region, one of many Parmesan cheese producers, who also happens to  have an amazing collection of motor vehicles which have been passed down to him from his illustrious family which included his father Umberto, who together with his brothers Benito, Franco and Guiseppe, invented the famous Panini stickers.

The motor collection started with tractors, which all farmers needed, and one of the exhibits is a 1934 Landini, still in perfect working order.  After tractors came motorcycles, the most common mode of transport after WWII, and after that came the wonderful cars, featuring examples from Maserati that are thought to be the most important collection of these super cars in the world.  In addition to Italian motor vehicles, there are also many examples from other countries such as British motorbikes from Norton, and even a Messerschmitt car and a Lotus!

A visit to the Hombre farm is an excellent family day trip.  First visit the dairy, where 12 wheels of Parmesan are produced daily, and then enjoy the motor museum.

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The Maserati Eldorado at the Panini Museum

Osteria Francescana

No culinary visit to Modena would be complete without having a meal at this wonderful restaurant, the brain-child of world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura, who grew up in Modena and developed his love of cooking by watching his mother prepare food.  Massimo has come a long way since then!  His food is a modern interpretation of classic Italian cuisine, but this chef, who has worked with some of the big names of the culinary world, such as Alain Ducasse and Ferran Adrio (of El Bulli) is forever pushing the boundaries.  He won his first Michelin star in 2002, a second in 2006 and a third in 2011, as well as numerous other awards and distinctions.  This year, 2013, La Francescana came in 3rd of the 50 best restaurants in the world.  Of course you have to book well in advance, and of course it is expensive, but it is worth it!  His signature dish for 2013 is called Camouflage – a hare in the woods; it is made up of a thin layer of foie gras decorated with various powders composed of hare blood, chestnut and several herbs – perhaps this dish is not for everyone, but it is an example of the chefs’ innovation.  Of course, there are more conventional dishes to suit all palates.

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Chef Massimo Bottura at his restaurant La Francescana in Modena – Source

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Genuine Balsamic Vinegar has been produced in Modena for centuries, and is a unique artisanal product, completely unlike regular vinegar.  The basic ingredient is grape Must (juice) from predominantly Trebbiano grapes (sometimes with the addition of Lambrusco grapes).  The must is simmered (never boiled!) for a lengthy period to reduce and concentrate the liquid.  This liquid is then allowed to ferment and mature for a minimum of 12 years in the case on a “true” Balsamic.  This wonderful product, known as Black Gold, can sometimes be matured as long as 25 years and a new batch is traditionally started to mark the birth of a baby girl, and treasured to become a part of her dowry!  Balsamic vinegar should be used sparingly – just a drop or two to enhance a sliver of Parmesan or a slice of Parma Ham.  Make sure to visit one of the Balsamic producers of Modena during your visit to learn the process of the production, learn how to use it, taste the wonderful nectar and, of course, buy some to take home with you to remind you of Modena.

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Anyone For Venice? Your In-depth Guide To The Floating City

What you have to know about a trip to Venice

Ah Venice, it doesn’t seem real. The fairy city of the heart, an exquisite jumble of palaces, spires and turrets in the middle of a lagoon. But when you get there, enjoying Europe’s floating city can hit you hard in the wallet. As The Telegraph reports, “Venice is expensive, there’s no getting away from that. And the most expensive parts of most people’s budget when they visit the city is the hotel and cost of eating out.” They suggest with a little know-how on where to look and how to book, you can take the pain out of your hip pocket. To help you make the most of La Serenissima for a lot less, read these tips about how to stay afloat – financially speaking that is – in Venice.

When to go

Not in the summer basically. It’s jam-packed, prices rocket and it’s actually not as nice. Venice doesn’t get as stinky as it used to but it is more likely to be whiffy in the odd canal and queues for museums and the Doge’s Palace become much lengthier in the warmer months. November is an ideal time to visit, with mists rising from the canals. January is lovely too, a treat in the post-New Year slump.

Popular blogger mymelange.net says: “The landscape becomes hauntingly beautiful, with fog permeating the city and the chance of snowfall at any minute. If you like photography, this is a perfect place to capture the lightly grayed, slanted light of Venice – winter produces eerie, yet spectacular images.”

October to February is high water season, known by Venetians as ‘acqua alta’, even though flooding can occur at any time of year. But the locals are used to it, and so are the authorities, quickly adding board ‘bridges’ in the streets when the waters rise. In November 2012, some tourists made a virtue out of necessity and took a dip in St Mark’s Square – it made for quite a sight.

What to take

Wellies, warm clothes, money and a map…

  • Wellies or strong waterproof boots because of the acqua alta.
  • Warm clothes to protect you from the icy winds that rise from the Adriatic and whip through the alleys.
  • Italyheaven advises: “Although there may be sunny days, the weather is likely to be grey and can be freezing. Venice gets very cold in winter, with a bitter edge to the damp air. You’ll need lots of layers of clothing and a hat.”
  • Money and plastic, because even with my tips, you will be spending it. Will Thomas from Tuxedo Money Solutions says that its currency cards are gaining popularity with holiday-makers as well as business travellers. “Carry one of our pre-loaded cash cards on your trip,” he said. “They are simple to set up and load with the amount you want.”
  • A map. You can pick up free basic maps from many hotels, tourist attractions and travel terminals but it’s worth investing a few euros in a proper street-by-street map. Getting lost is part of the charm of a visit to Venice, but eventually you’ll want to find your hotel and a warming hot chocolate.

What to do

Walk, walk, walk. Venice itself is a work of art, almost every corner, doorway or rooftop offers a faded frieze, religious symbol or quirky window.

Enjoy the churches. Many charge a small entrance fee but it’s a small price to pay to see works of art by Titian and other Venetian artists in situ. A group of churches has a joint entry scheme www.chorus.org and you can buy a year-long pass for €9, allowing one visit to each of the sixteen participating.

For the Vaporetto, museums, churches, anything except your coffee, buying a multipass can really save you cash. Venice’s civic museums’ museum pass costs €18 and includes entry into the best attractions including the Doge’s Palace. This is a must in the eternal city. As Lonely Planet writes: “Don’t be fooled by its genteel Gothic elegance: underneath all that lacy pink cladding, the palace flexes serious muscle. The seat of Venice’s government for nearly seven centuries, this powerhouse survived wars, conspiracies and economic crashes, and was cleverly restored by Antonio da Ponte, who also designed Ponte di Rialto [the Rialto Bridge}, after a 1577 fire.”

St Mark’s Square must be seen to be believed. Napoleon called it the ‘finest drawing room in Europe’. Its cafes are notoriously expensive but it costs nothing to wander the vast space, admire the architecture and listen to the cafe orchestras and hum of languages being spoken.

Top tip: If you have a coffee and snack at a cafe bar counter, it’s cheaper than if you sit at a table. And you feel more like an Italian. Maybe time it just before you take your water bus or taxi to another part of the city and give your legs a rest while you’re afloat.

The famous La Fenice is well worth a visit, though ironically (or is it just unfortunately) for a place named after the phoenix, it burnt down in 1836 and again in 1996. Veniceonline.it tells of how much Venetians felt the loss of their theatre: “For months a lot of people did a pilgrimage to the theatre, put the flowers, crying, put messages, it looked like if a real person was died …. very, very strange …” Now though, La Fenice has been lovingly restored and is a lovely destination to while away a winter afternoon. You may even catch a member of the orchestra rehearsing in the pit.

When you’ve had enough of ancient beauties, check out some modern wonders at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in a stunning white palace at the end of the Grand Canal, it houses works by modern artists on the Grand Canal. View works by Henry Moore, Jackson Pollock, Max Ernst and Anish Kapoor.

Where to stay

The Telegraph recommends Residenza de l’Osmarin – a cheap b&b in a great location, featuring an elegant décor and a private roof terrace with wonderful views of the city. East of St Mark’s square, L’Osmarin is close to Venice’s main thoroughfares but set just far enough off them to feel secluded and quiet.

I love the four-star Hotel Giorgione in the Cannaregio district, which is a historical house in Venice. The staff are delightful and there is free tea, coffee and biscuits provided in the lobby all afternoon. Ideal for UK visitors needing a cup that cheers after a day pounding the streets. It’s less than five minutes to the Rialto Bridge and less than fifteen to St Mark’s Square.

BA offers good deals on flights and hotel deals to the city at certain times throughout the winter, though you’ll have to make your own way from the airport to the city. Treat yourself to a water taxi and pull up to your hotel landing platform -if it has one – in style.

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London-based lifestyle journalist and travel writer Sarah Thompson loves to explore European cities by foot. An intrepid traveller, Sarah is keen to share her tips on making travel safer, easier and less stressful, though she has to admit to getting lost in Venice frequently and happily. Aside from a love of pounding the pavements of the world’s greatest cities, Sarah also loves to settle down in her favourite armchair with a book. Read more of Sarah’s articles in publications that appear online and in print.

What Food Factories can I visit in Italy?

Everyone loves Italian food!  Wherever you go in the world, even in unlikely places such as Thailand and Malaysia, both of which have their own wonderful regional cuisine, you will find Italian restaurants, and most people cook at least one Italian staple, pasta, on a regular basis at home.  It follows that if you are visiting Italy, you will want to explore the origins of some of your favourite Italian dishes and ingredients.

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Food factories in Emilia Romagna.

A visit to the Emilia-Romagna region of north-eastern Italy will give you the opportunity to visit the production houses of some of Italy’s best-loved and most famous foods.  The region is easily accessed from Bologna or Florence and the prized foods are made in and around the towns of Parma and Modena.
The three main foods you can see being manufactured from scratch are Prosciutto di Parma (Parma Ham), Parmigiano  Reggiano (Parmesan Cheese) and Aceto Balsamico (Balsamic vinegar).  These three products are the most famous of Italy’s food exports and are known far and wide.  Visitors to the region will be pleased to know that Parma and Modena are quite close to each other which makes it really easy to visit these 3 factories in one day, and still have time to sip some local Lambrusco (sparkling red wine from the region) before the sun sets.  

Food Experiences tours around Bologna and Parma.

The best way to visit all these factories is to go on an organised Culinary Tour, either using your own transport or, better yet, being collected at your hotel and driven around – this way you get to see more of the beautiful countryside.
The town of Parma is the home of Parmesan Cheese and Parma Ham (only Prosciutto from this little part of Italy may be called Parma Ham – likewise with the cheese – their region of origin is protected and similar products from other regions may not use the names.)   A typical culinary tour to see the production of these products will start with a visit to one of the many Parmesan Cheese manufacturers in and around the town of Parma.  The Parmesan production starts anew every single day, and you can watch the entire process from the arrival of the milk, to the storage in the cellars.  You will also be taught how to differentiate between real Parmesan and copies, which is very helpful when you get back home.
After the cheese, you will go to Modena to see how the Balsamic vinegar, Italian “Black Gold” is made.  This is a laborious artisanal procedure and you will leave with a better understanding of why the real thing is so expensive.  You will also get to taste, and learn some of the correct uses of this delicious condiment.
The cherry on the top of your tour will be when you visit the little town of Langhirano, just south of Parma, which is the original home of Parma Ham.  At the factory you will be guided through all the stages of producing a fine Parma Ham, which differs in some respects from ordinary Prosciutto Cotto (Dried Ham).  The proof of the pudding is in the eating, they say, and you will end your tour with a tasting session and then go on to enjoy a fabulous lunch.  

Winery tours in the Emilia Region

If you have a little more time, consider visiting some of the vineyards where the lovely regional Lambrusco is produced.  A leisurely day driving through the peaceful Italian countryside and visiting some of the wineries will round-off your culinary adventure perfectly.  Culinary tours can be tailor-made to suit your needs – just speak to your tour company.
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