Tag: Traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena

I Went to See Acetaia by Massimo Bottura and This Is What I Found

In the heart of Italy’s gastronomic panorama, the name Massimo Bottura stands tall, synonymous with innovation, tradition, and an unbridled passion for culinary excellence. Recently, I had the unique opportunity to explore one of Bottura’s ventures, which is not just a dining experience but a cultural immersion: the Acetaia Maria Luigia. This article recounts my journey to this remarkable place, where every droplet of balsamic vinegar carries a story of heritage and craftsmanship.

The Essence of Modena’s Black Gold

The journey to understanding the depth of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena begins long before the first taste. It starts with a walk through the Emilian countryside, where Acetaia Maria Luigia, also known as Acetaia ML, is nestled. A sight to behold, it is cradled in an 18th-century portico that marries the rustic charm of Modena with the intellectual stimulation of contemporary art installations. Here, the legacy of Acetaia Fabbi, originally opened in 1969, continues with over 1,200 barrels of aging vinegar, each with barrels dating back to the early 1900s.

A Visionary’s Touch

Massimo Bottura, a three Michelin-starred chef and a recurring name atop the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, is the maestro behind this symphony of flavors. His vision transcends the culinary boundaries to evoke a contemplation of history, territory, and flavor. At Acetaia ML, this vision comes alive as a living gallery of taste, where each barrel tells a tale of time’s passage and the dedication of its custodians.

The Acetaia Experience

Visiting Acetaia ML is a sensory pilgrimage. The aroma of the aged vinegar is a prelude to its rich, complex flavor. The experience is not limited to the palate; it extends to the visual feast of art and the tactile sensation of century-old wood. It’s here that Bottura’s culinary philosophy materializes, urging visitors to look with ‘poetic eyes’ and perceive beyond the imperfections to appreciate the beauty in the making.

The Aged Barrels and Their Liquid Treasure

Each barrel in the acetaia is a custodian of time. The older the barrel, the denser and more complex the vinegar. As I moved through the rows, I was struck by the sheer number of them, and the understanding that the balsamic vinegar is not made but is born, nurtured by the dedicated hands that turn and tap each barrel with a rhythm as old as the tradition itself.

Art Meets Gastronomy

The intersection of art and food is palpable in Acetaia ML. The contemporary art installations by Ingo Maurer, Kehinde Wiley, and Olafur Eliasson offer a visual narrative that complements the gastronomic journey. It’s a dialogue between the past and the present, where the artistic expressions echo the innovative spirit of Bottura and his culinary art.

Tasting the History

Tasting sessions at Acetaia ML are akin to a gastronomic time travel. Each sample narrates a different era, a different approach to the craft. The younger vinegars are bright and sharp, while the older ones, aged for decades, possess a depth that can only be described as tasting history itself.

The Lure of the Boutique Hotel Casa Maria Luigia

Adjacent to Acetaia ML is Bottura’s boutique hotel, Casa Maria Luigia, which complements the vinegar tasting experience with luxurious comfort and the promise of Bottura’s culinary wonders. The hotel stands as an extension of the acetaia’s experience, offering a haven for those who seek to immerse themselves fully in Bottura’s world.

A Day in the Life of Acetaia ML

A day at Acetaia ML is not just about the vinegar. It’s an educational journey that starts with understanding the meticulous process of vinegar-making, followed by tastings, and often accompanied by other activities such as truffle hunting. It’s about experiencing the richness of Emilia-Romagna through Bottura’s eyes.

In Conclusion

Acetaia Maria Luigia is not just a destination; it’s an experience that leaves an indelible mark on your culinary consciousness. It represents the marriage of ancient tradition with modern interpretation, a place where each drop of vinegar is a testament to the legacy of Modena’s black gold. As I left Acetaia ML, I carried with me not just a bottle of its finest but memories of a place where food is revered, history is cherished, and every flavor tells a story. Massimo Bottura has indeed added a new jewel to the Francescana family, a jewel that gleams with the promise of unforgettable flavors and the allure of a story that begs to be told.

Modena and Reggio Emilia: find REAL Balsamic Vinegar

There is still a lot of confusion about what constitutes a genuine Balsamic vinegar, or Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, to give this Italian “black gold” its  correct name. After all, anyone can walk into their local supermarket and find a string of different vinegars all bearing the name Balsamic Vinegar of Modena; this is confusing I know, but do not be fooled – this is a cheaper “imitation” and nothing at all like the product it tries to imitate. Most of cheaper bottles will contain cooked grape juice and ordinary red wine vinegar, and sometimes thickeners and caramel to sweeten and colour. These products are regulated by IGP labelling and producers can add these additives to obtain the right colour or density. Most of them are pleasant enough to use for salad dressing, and slightly sweeter than regular red wine vinegar.

ACETO2
Traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, in its typical bottle.

What is real traditional balsamic vinegar then?

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, by contrast, is regulated every step of the way through the production and aging process and may only be produced in two areas, Modena and Reggio Emilia in the north of Italy, which is where you should go to find it and see how it is made. The best way to be sure that you are finding the real thing is to go on a Balsamic Tour to one of the producers, where you will learn all about the production process and how to recognise the genuine product. There are about 160 producers in the two regions, who make a total of just 75,000 bottles a year. The vinegar is made in the traditional age-old way, using mainly trebbiano grapes grown locally. The vinegar is aged in a succession of wooden barrels which become smaller and smaller until it has been maturing for at least 12 years, the minimum acceptable aging period for a Tradizionale Balsamic. At this stage the vinegar will be tasted by the regulatory body, the Consorzio to which the producer belongs, and if it is passed it will be labelled affinato, indicating a young Balsamic, and is bottled with a white top, in both Modena and Reggio Emilia.

Extra old balsamic vinegars in Modena and Reggio Emilia.

About 30 – 40% of the product is then further aged until it reaches 25 or even 30 years old. A really well matured over 25 year old Balsamic is labelled extra vecchio (very old) and will be bottled with a gold top in both regions. In Reggio Emilia, there is a third designation for vinegars that have been matured for at least 18 years – they are labelled vecchio (old) and bottled with a gold top. The bottle shapes are also distinctive for each region; in Modena they use a rounded globe-shaped bottle with a rectangular base and a long neck, while the Reggio Emilia bottle is straighter and has a slightly flared base.

Many of the producers (acetaia) in the Modena and Reggio Emilia region are very happy to take you on a tour of their establishments, but most will require advance booking if you are not part of a tour. Acetaia di Giorgio is one of the producers in Modena who will give you a genuine welcome and an excellent tour, including the chance to taste several different balsamics, while in Reggio Emilia, Acetaia Medici is a good choice since they not only make excellent Balsamic, but also several wonderful wines.

Emilia Delizia will be delighted to organise a traditional balsamic tour for your group, big or small. Our company can organise an all inclusive day with transport and English speaking guide, departing from Bologna, Modena, Reggio Emilia and Parma.

3 bottles of traditional balsamic vinegar
The 3 ageing of the traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia

css.php