Rocchetta Mattei: How to Visit Bologna’s Most Unusual Castle

Rocchetta Mattei is a 19th-century castle built into a hilltop in the Apennines, about 50 kilometres southwest of Bologna. From the outside it looks like a medieval fortress. Inside, it is one of the strangest buildings in Italy — a maze of towers, stairways and chambers mixing Moorish, Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau styles, including a miniature replica of the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions and a chapel modelled on the Mosque of Córdoba.

It is one of the best day trips from Bologna for anyone interested in architecture or simply looking for something completely unexpected.

Who Built Rocchetta Mattei and Why

Count Cesare Mattei began building the castle in 1850 on the ruins of a fortress attributed to Matilda of Tuscany. Mattei was a wealthy Bolognese nobleman — one of the founders of Cassa di Risparmio bank — who had received his title from Pope Pius IX. In his later years he became obsessed with a pseudoscientific medical system he called elettromeopatia (electrohomeopathy), which he practised and promoted from the castle.

At its peak, Mattei’s electrohomeopathy had over 100 distribution depots worldwide, and patients and curious visitors made pilgrimages to Rocchetta. After his death in 1896, the castle passed through several hands and fell into disrepair. It was restored and reopened to the public in 2015 by the Fondazione Carisbo and is now managed by the municipality of Grizzana Morandi.

What You Will See Inside

The castle is not large, but every room is designed to disorient and impress. The highlights:

• The Chapel: alternating black and white arches inspired by the Mezquita in Córdoba — the most photographed room in the castle
• Courtyard of the Lions: a scaled-down reproduction of the famous courtyard in the Alhambra, Granada
• The monumental staircase: connecting levels through a tower with views over the Reno valley
• Mattei’s private rooms: where he received patients and conducted his electrohomeopathy experiments

The architectural mix is deliberate — Mattei travelled widely and brought back influences from Spain, North Africa and the Middle East. The result feels more like a stage set than a residence, which is part of the appeal.

How to Get There from Bologna

By car: take the SS64 Porrettana road southwest through Sasso Marconi, Marzabotto and Vergato. Follow signs for Rocchetta Mattei from Riola. The drive takes about an hour. Free parking near the castle.

By train: regional trains from Bologna Centrale to Riola station take about 50 minutes. From the station, the castle is a 20-minute uphill walk (1.5 km) or a short ride on bus line 963.

Visiting: Booking, Hours and Prices

• Booking is mandatory. Visits are guided only, in groups of 20. Book on the official Rocchetta Mattei website
• Tour duration: approximately 1 hour
• Ticket price: €10 per adult
• Opening days: weekends and public holidays year-round, with additional openings in summer and high-demand periods. Tours run from 9:30 to 18:30 (last entry 17:30)
• Contact: [email protected]

Slots fill up fast, especially on weekends in spring and autumn. Book at least a week ahead. If you cannot get a slot, check for cancellations closer to the date.

If you are planning a longer trip around Bologna, see our full guide to things to do in Bologna and our Foodies’ Delight food tour for a day visiting Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar and prosciutto producers.