Camogli, Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure: A Guide to the Portofino Peninsula

The Portofino peninsula, jutting into the Ligurian Sea between Genoa and La Spezia, is one of the most protected stretches of Italian coastline. The Regional Natural Park of Portofino and the adjacent Marine Reserve together safeguard the promontory’s oak and pine forests, its seabed wildlife, and three villages that have changed little in appearance over the past century. Gourmet travellers will find Pesto alla Genovese, Focaccia di Recco, fresh anchovies and some of the best fishing-boat lunches available anywhere on the Italian Riviera.

Camogli

Arriving by ferry, the first sight of Camogli is an unbroken wall of tall, colourfully painted houses along the port — trompe-l’oeil details and shell-encrusted facades making the buildings appear even taller and grander than they are. The village has a long fishing tradition; its name is said to derive from ca’ de mogi, houses of wives — the women left behind while their husbands were at sea for months.

Pescaturismo (fishing tourism) is one of the more unusual experiences available here: local fishing boats take small groups out at 8 am to watch the nets lifted and help handle the catch. A fish meal cooked on board with that morning’s haul ends the trip. The Sagra del Pesce (Fish Festival) in May cooks fresh fish in enormous pans on the waterfront. From Camogli a hiking trail leads to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, a medieval monastery only reachable on foot or by boat, set in a secluded bay — one of the finest short walks on the Riviera.

The nearby village of Recco produces Focaccia di Recco col formaggio IGP — a thin, unleavened flatbread wrapped around crescenza or stracchino cheese, baked at high heat until blistered and molten. It is not the same product as ordinary focaccia and must be eaten freshly made. Recco is five minutes from Camogli by car; several bakeries in Camogli also stock it.

Portofino

Portofino is a small port village with a large international reputation: the curved harbour with its pastel houses has appeared on so many postcards, travel posters and magazine covers that it functions as a shorthand for Italian coastal glamour. The reality matches the image. Luxury yachts, celebrity sightings and designer boutiques are the backdrop; the village itself, reached by ferry from Camogli or by the coast road from Santa Margherita Ligure (access by private car is restricted in summer), is compact and best explored on foot.

The Castle Brown above the port, a 16th-century fortification now open to the public, offers the best views of the gulf. The Church of San Giorgio on the same hill has good views in the other direction. The walk from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino along the coastal path (about 5 km, 1.5 hours) is one of the most scenic short walks on this stretch of coast.

Santa Margherita Ligure

The largest of the three villages, Santa Margherita Ligure is a proper town with a functioning marina, a train station connecting it to Genoa and La Spezia, and enough hotels and restaurants to serve as a base for the whole peninsula. The waterfront is lined with palm trees and backed by Liberty-style villas. The Italian Riviera is at its most theatrical here — mountains pressing down to the sea, boats in the harbour, the air smelling of salt and pine.

Water sports, whale-watching boat trips and diving excursions depart from the marina. The botanical gardens are worth visiting in spring. From Santa Margherita ferries run regularly to Portofino and Camogli. For those continuing east along the Riviera, the Cinque Terre are accessible from La Spezia, roughly one hour by train from Santa Margherita.