Via Francigena Northern Tuscany: Pontremoli, Sarzana and Carrara

The Via Francigena enters Tuscany at Pontremoli, coming down from the Cisa Pass on the Parma side, and runs south through Lunigiana before crossing into Liguria at Sarzana and back into Tuscany near Carrara. This stretch — roughly three walking days — is one of the least crowded sections of the entire route and passes through towns that most tourists never reach.

The trail is well marked throughout: white-red blazes and yellow signs with the pilgrim symbol. Most of the route runs on paths and gravel roads (strade bianche), with some asphalt sections connecting the towns.

Pontremoli — Leg 23

Pontremoli sits on the border between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, where the river Magra meets the Verde. It is the first major stop after crossing the Cisa Pass from Parma — the pass has been a crossing point since the Roman road network, and pilgrims have been descending into Pontremoli for over a thousand years.

The town has a medieval core, a castle (Castello del Piagnaro), and the Museo delle Statue Stele — prehistoric stone figures dating to 3000 BC, found nowhere else in Italy. The local food earns its own stop: testaroli (a flat crepe-pasta cooked on stone, served with pesto or oil), sgabei (fried dough eaten warm with salumi), and torta d’erbe (herb pie).

Aulla and the Lunigiana Valley — Leg 24

From Pontremoli the route follows the Magra valley south to Aulla, a smaller town at the junction of four valleys — historically a strategic crossing point. The landscape is open river valley with the Apennines visible to the east. Aulla has a 16th-century fortress, the Brunella, which sits above the town and houses a natural history museum.

Accommodation along this stretch is available at pilgrim hostels run by parish churches and confraternities — the same model that has served walkers since the Middle Ages. Book ahead in summer.

Sarzana — Leg 24 end

Sarzana is in Liguria, just across the regional border, and feels different — lower, flatter, greener, with plants climbing the walls of the medieval centre. The town has two fortifications: the Fortezza Firmafede (15th century, built by Lorenzo de’ Medici) and the Fortezza di Sarzanello on the hill above, once connected by a raised walkway.

Sarzana Cathedral dates to the 11th century and houses a painted crucifix attributed to Guglielmo, dated 1138 — one of the oldest in Italy. The town is known for its antique market, which fills the streets on summer weekends, and for its food: fritto misto di mare, linguine ai frutti di mare, and pappardelle with hare ragù.

Carrara — Leg 25

The route continues south through Avenza into Carrara, where the marble quarries have been active since Roman times. Michelangelo sourced stone here for the Pietà and the David. The quarries are still working — white dust settles on the town, and the mountains above look permanently snow-capped.

Piazza Alberica is the main square, lined with marble even in its paving. The CARMI museum covers the history of quarrying and sculpture. The food product most associated with Carrara is Lardo di Colonnata — cured fatback aged in marble basins in the village of Colonnata, 8km above town. It has IGP status and is worth the detour.

Practical information

• Start point: Pontremoli — by train from Parma (1 hour) or La Spezia (45 min)
• Walking distance: Pontremoli to Carrara is approximately 80km — 3 days at a steady pace
• Waymarking: White-red blazes and yellow pilgrim signs throughout
• Accommodation: Pilgrim hostels in Pontremoli, Aulla, Sarzana, and Carrara; private B&Bs also available
• Best season: April–June and September–October; July and August are hot near the coast
• Pilgrim credential: Required for hostel accommodation — obtain before departure or at the first hostel