The strip of Tuscany between the Apuan Alps and the Tyrrhenian Sea packs three very different experiences into a small area: a luxury beach resort beloved by Italian and Russian aristocracy, the white marble quarries that supplied Michelangelo, and one of Italy’s most protected cured foods, aged in marble tubs in a village above the quarries. A day covers all three.
Forte dei Marmi
Forte dei Marmi sits in the Versilia coast between La Spezia and Viareggio, backed by the dramatic white ridges of the Apuan Alps. It earned its reputation as one of Italy’s chicest beach resorts in the early 20th century, when noble families from across Italy built the pine-shaded villas that still line the streets behind the beach. The standard of the private beach clubs (bagni), the boutiques on the seafront and the restaurant scene remain at the top of the Italian coastal hierarchy.
The historic centre turns on Piazza Garibaldi, where the arcaded bars and shops radiate outward to the Fortino — a small fortress built by the Grand Duke Leopold I of Tuscany in the 18th century for coastal defence. The iron pier jutting into the sea dates to 1876; historically it served as a loading dock for the marble quarried in the mountains above, lowered down to the coast by oxen and then shipped from the pier. Today it houses the Museum of Satire and Caricature. On Wednesdays the market fills Piazza Marconi with clothing and accessories. The 10-km beach is divided into sections with different atmospheres: family areas, couples-only zones, clubs oriented towards nightlife.
Carrara Marble Quarries
Drive 30 minutes north into the mountains above Carrara and the landscape turns lunar: kilometre after kilometre of exposed white marble, bright enough to be mistaken for snow from the highway. The quarries sit in three main valleys — Colonnata, Torano and Fantiscritti — that branch out from above the town of Carrara. Marble has been extracted here continuously for over 2,000 years. Roman emperors used it for temples and triumphal arches; Michelangelo personally selected the blocks for his David and the Vatican Pietà from these hills. The Vatican Museums, the Uffizi and the Rome Archaeological Museum all contain significant works in Carrara marble.
The lower quarries and some mining tracks can be explored by car on a self-guided drive, but to reach the upper levels of the Apuan Alps a guided tour is necessary. Tour operators based in Carrara and Forte dei Marmi offer minibus and jeep excursions into the active quarry zone, including visits to the processing sheds where raw blocks are cut into slabs. The scale of the operations is staggering — modern diamond-wire cutting machines slice through blocks of hundreds of tonnes as routinely as a kitchen knife through bread.
Lardo di Colonnata IGP
The village of Colonnata sits at 550 metres above sea level, high in the quarry zone above Carrara. It gives its name to one of Italy’s most distinctive cured pork products: Lardo di Colonnata, strips of fatback cured in marble basins and aged for a minimum of six months. The combination is specific to this place: the pigs traditionally reared in the area, the constant mountain wind that creates ideal humidity, and above all the particular local marble — white Carrara from a vein called Calanoni — whose porousness and temperature regulation cannot be replicated elsewhere. The product has held IGP status since 2004.
The curing process begins with layers of lard alternating with coarse sea salt, rosemary, garlic, black pepper and local mountain herbs. The marble basins are sealed and the lardo rests for six to ten months. The result is silky, mildly aromatic, and nothing like ordinary pork fat. In Colonnata’s handful of shops and workshops you can taste it on bread warmed on a flat stone — a bruschetta of extraordinary simplicity. The village has almost no other commerce; the lardo artisans are the reason it exists.
Colonnata is a 15-minute drive from the centre of Carrara and is easily combined with a marble quarry visit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I visit the Carrara quarries independently?
The lower quarry roads are accessible by private car and a self-guided drive gives a good impression of the scale. To enter the active upper quarries or the processing sheds you need a guided tour. Several operators in Carrara and Forte dei Marmi run half-day jeep or minibus excursions, some of which include a stop in Colonnata for lardo tasting.
When is the best time to visit Forte dei Marmi?
June through August is peak season — the beach is full, restaurants are open and the social scene is at its height. July and August are very crowded and prices peak. May and September are quieter, still warm enough for the beach, and considerably more affordable. The quarries and Colonnata are worth visiting any time of year.
What is Lardo di Colonnata and how is it eaten?
Lardo di Colonnata is cured fatback (not lard in the rendered sense) aged in marble basins with salt, rosemary and herbs for six months or more. It is eaten thinly sliced on warm bread or bruschetta, where the heat melts it slightly. The flavour is mild, aromatic and far more delicate than you might expect from cured pork fat.
Is Forte dei Marmi suitable for families?
Yes, though it is also a luxury resort with the prices that implies. The beach clubs have sections dedicated to families with young children. The shallow, calm sea and flat terrain are practical for families. The town is very safe and walkable.
How do I get to Forte dei Marmi by train?
The nearest station is Forte dei Marmi-Pietrasanta on the Pisa-La Spezia line. The station is about 3 km from the seafront — a taxi or local bus covers the gap. Trains from Pisa take around 30 minutes; from La Spezia around 20 minutes; from Florence via Pisa roughly 1 hour 30 minutes.
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