The Malaspina Castles of Lunigiana: A Complete Visitor’s Guide

Lunigiana has more castles per square kilometre than almost any other region in Italy. More than 50 fortifications — from well-preserved medieval strongholds to crumbling hilltop towers — are scattered across the upper Magra valley and its tributaries. Most were built or expanded by the Malaspina family, the dominant dynasty of medieval Lunigiana and one of the most powerful noble houses in northern Italy. Dante stayed at several of their castles during his years of exile; the family’s influence stretched from Liguria to Emilia and shaped the landscape you see today.

The Malaspina Dynasty

The Malaspina controlled Lunigiana from the 11th century through a complex web of branches, feuds, marriages, and divisions. At their peak they ruled a territory of considerable size, collected tolls on the Via Francigena passing through their lands, and acted as patrons of troubadour poetry and early Italian literature. Dante Alighieri, exiled from Florence in 1302, spent time in the protection of various Malaspina lords and set part of Purgatorio in Lunigiana. The dynasty’s gradual fragmentation — through inheritance divisions that split the territory into ever-smaller fiefdoms — explains the extraordinary density of castles: each branch needed its own seat of power.

Castello del Piagnaro, Pontremoli

The Castello del Piagnaro, perched on a rocky spur above the old town of Pontremoli, is the most accessible and most rewarding castle in Lunigiana. Its origins are medieval, but its current form reflects multiple rebuilding phases through the 14th and 15th centuries. Inside, the castle houses the Museo delle Statue Stele Lunigianesi — an extraordinary collection of prehistoric carved stone figures, some dating back 5,000 years, depicting stylised human forms with weapons and jewellery. These stele are unique to Lunigiana and represent one of the most enigmatic prehistoric cultures in Italy. The museum alone justifies a visit to Pontremoli.

Fosdinovo Castle

Fosdinovo Castle (Castello Malaspina di Fosdinovo) is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in all of Tuscany. Built in the 14th century on a dramatic rocky outcrop above the village of Fosdinovo, it remained in the hands of a single Malaspina branch for nearly 700 years — one of the longest uninterrupted periods of noble family ownership of any Italian castle. Its towers, battlements, state rooms, and Gothic chapel are largely intact. Dante is said to have stayed here during his exile. Guided tours are available and highly recommended — the interior contains original furniture, armour, and family portraits spanning several centuries.

Castello della Verrucola, Fivizzano

The Castello della Verrucola rises above the village of Fivizzano on a rocky promontory that commands views across the entire upper Magra valley. Originally a Malaspina stronghold, it passed through several hands before being extensively restored in the 20th century. It is now privately owned but open to visitors on scheduled days. The castle’s interior has been converted into a contemporary art space — an unusual combination of medieval fortification and modern art that works better than it sounds.

Bagnone and the Malaspina Castle

Bagnone is one of the most charming villages in Lunigiana — a compact medieval centre above the river of the same name, with an arcaded main street and a well-preserved castle tower. The castle, originally built in the 13th century, is now partially converted into a residence but its exterior and the surrounding village are worth exploring on foot. The medieval bridge over the Bagnone river, dated to the 14th century, is one of the most photogenic spots in the region.

Villafranca in Lunigiana

Villafranca in Lunigiana is home to the Museo Etnografico della Lunigiana, housed in an old mill and one of the best small ethnographic museums in Tuscany, documenting the traditional crafts, tools, and way of life of the Lunigiana valleys. The town itself sits at the confluence of several valleys and was historically an important market town on the Via Francigena. A small medieval tower survives in the town centre.

Practical Information for Visiting the Castles

Opening times and admission vary considerably between castles and change seasonally. Castello del Piagnaro in Pontremoli and Fosdinovo Castle are the most reliably accessible and have the most regular opening hours. Many smaller castles are exterior-only visits, or open only on weekends and during summer. The local tourist office in Pontremoli (IAT Lunigiana) publishes an up-to-date list of castle openings and can arrange guided tours of the most important sites. A car is essential for visiting more than one or two castles in a day, as they are spread across the valley system and poorly served by public transport.