Trattoria Ai Due Platani in Parma: A Rustic Culinary Retreat

Prosciutto di Parma legs hanging to cure in a traditional Parma salumeria

Trattoria Ai Due Platani is in Colorno, a small town about 15 km north of Parma along the Po plain. Colorno is best known for its Reggia — the ducal palace that served as the summer residence of the Farnese and later the Bourbon-Parma families — and Due Platani has been the town’s main address for traditional Parma cooking for decades. The name comes from the two plane trees that stand outside the entrance.

The restaurant sits slightly outside the usual Parma tourist circuit, which keeps the clientele largely local. It operates as a family trattoria: the menu is rooted in the Parma tradition, the portions are generous, and the cooking does not stray far from what has always been done in this part of Emilia.

What to Order

The pasta is the reason to come. Tortelli d’erbetta — fresh pasta filled with ricotta and Swiss chard, served with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano — is the defining dish of the Parma tradition and Due Platani’s version is made in-house. Anolini in broth is the other classic: small filled pasta in a long-cooked beef and Parmigiano broth, the dish that appears on every important table in Parma at Christmas and Sunday lunch. Both are worth ordering if available.

Among the secondi, expect dishes built around the Parma larder: Prosciutto di Parma and local salumi as antipasto, and meat-based mains prepared without fuss. The restaurant sources from local producers, which in this part of Emilia means access to good Culatello from the Po fog-belt and Parmigiano from nearby dairies.

Combining with Colorno

Colorno is worth the detour on its own. The Reggia di Colorno — a large baroque palace with formal gardens — is the town’s centrepiece and was once the most important ducal residence in the duchy of Parma. It now houses ALMA, Italy’s leading culinary school, which adds a certain logic to eating well nearby. A visit to the Reggia followed by lunch at Due Platani makes a coherent half-day from Parma.

Practical Information

  • Location: Colorno, approximately 15 km north of Parma — around 20 minutes by car
  • Getting there: Car is the practical option; limited bus connections from Parma
  • Style: Family trattoria — informal, local clientele, traditional menu
  • Price: Mid-range — expect around €25–40 per person with wine
  • Reservations: Recommended at weekends

For other restaurants in the area, see our reviews of Ristorante Parizzi and Trattoria Cocchi. For planning a broader Parma visit, see our guide on how to plan your trip to Parma.

Want to taste Emilia-Romagna's finest products?
Our half-day food tour from Bologna or Modena visits a Parmigiano dairy, a balsamic acetaia, and a prosciutto producer — transport included.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Trattoria Ai Due Platani?

In Colorno, a small town about 15 km north of Parma — roughly 20 minutes by car. Colorno is on the Po plain and is best known for its Reggia (ducal palace), which now houses the ALMA culinary school. The restaurant name refers to the two plane trees outside.

What is tortelli d’erbetta?

Tortelli d’erbetta is fresh egg pasta filled with ricotta and Swiss chard (erbetta), served with melted butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. It is one of the defining pasta dishes of Parma and differs from tortellini — these are larger, square-folded parcels rather than the small ring-shaped pasta associated with Bologna. At a traditional Parma trattoria like Due Platani, the pasta is made in-house daily.

Is Due Platani worth visiting if you’re staying in Parma?

Yes, particularly if you want to eat outside the tourist centre. The combination of Due Platani with a visit to the Reggia di Colorno makes a coherent half-day out from Parma. The drive is short and the town is pleasant. It is the kind of lunch a local Parma family would drive out for on a Sunday — which is a reasonable recommendation in itself.

What is Colorno known for?

The Reggia di Colorno — a large baroque ducal palace that served as the summer residence of the Farnese and Bourbon-Parma families — is the main attraction. The palace now houses ALMA, Italy’s most prominent professional culinary school. The town is small and quiet, with a well-preserved historic centre around the palace and gardens.

How does Due Platani compare to other Parma restaurants?

Due Platani is a trattoria — informal, local, focused on traditional cooking at reasonable prices. It sits at the opposite end of the spectrum from Ristorante Parizzi (Parma’s main fine dining address) and is more similar in style to Trattoria Cocchi. The main difference is location: being in Colorno rather than central Parma means fewer tourists and a more local atmosphere.


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