Lunigiana occupies the northernmost tip of Tuscany, where the Apennines, the Apuan Alps, and the Ligurian border converge. The region has been a transit corridor since antiquity — the Via Francigena, the medieval pilgrim road from Canterbury to Rome, crosses the Cisa pass at Pontremoli and descends through the valley to the coast. The result is a string of fortified hilltop villages, Malaspina castles, and small towns with a distinct food culture that belongs neither to Tuscany nor Liguria but to both. Three towns in particular reward a visit.
1. Pontremoli
Pontremoli is the main town of Lunigiana and the historic gateway on the Via Francigena before the Cisa pass. It was a Latin Catholic bishopric and for centuries the primary crossing point for pilgrims, merchants, and armies moving between the Po valley and the Ligurian coast. The town was contested repeatedly through the medieval period, burned and rebuilt, and its divided character — the old town split between two historic factions — is still legible in the street plan.
The Ponte della Cresa spans the River Verde on four stone arches and was one of the main entrances into the city from the south. The Ponte and Tower del Cassetto are the emblems of Pontremoli — the tower sits at the point that once divided the rival quarters of the town and now serves as a landmark in the centre. The Museum of the Statue-Stele, housed in the Castello del Piagnaro above the town, is one of the most unusual collections in northern Italy: prehistoric stone sculptures found across the Lunigiana valley, their meaning and origin still not fully understood.
The food to eat here is testaroli — a thick, pancake-like pasta cooked on terracotta discs over an open fire, then briefly boiled and served with pesto or a simple olive oil and cheese dressing. It is one of the oldest pasta forms in Italy and essentially impossible to find outside the region.
Pontremoli deserves more than a passing visit. For a full travel guide see Pontremoli: A Hidden Gem in Tuscany, or if you are still deciding, Is Pontremoli Worth Visiting? answers that question in detail. For food and activity ideas, our guide to food experiences in Pontremoli covers truffle hunts, fire cooking, wine and ham. You can also book a dedicated Pontremoli truffle hunting experience or explore the best wine tasting in Pontremoli.
2. Equi Terme
Equi Terme sits on a rocky slope at the foot of the Apuan Alps, beside one of the range’s higher peaks. The town offers three distinct reasons to visit, which is unusual for a village of its size.
The Terme di Equi are mineral spring baths with water emerging at around 24°C. The springs are classified as therapeutic and have historically been used for respiratory and otolaryngological conditions, joint and bone problems, skin complaints, and circulatory issues. The spa complex is functional rather than luxurious but the water quality is the point.
The Grotte di Equi are karst caves of international scientific importance, recognised by UNESCO. The cave system runs for around one kilometre and divides into three sections: La Buca, the dry entrance section where water no longer flows; the main cave complex, where active erosion continues to shape stalagmites and stalactites across several interconnected chambers; and a deeper expert area of approximately 500 metres, accessible only to experienced cavers with proper equipment. The accessible sections include a paleontological and archaeological site — bones and artefacts recovered here place human and animal activity in the caves at a significant depth of prehistory.
The village itself is worth a short walk — a spire bell tower, a small medieval chapel, and narrow streets above the river. Equi Terme also sits along the Via Francigena. For walkers and history lovers, see our guide to walking the Via Francigena in Tuscany, or the original exploration of unexplored northern Tuscany along the Via Francigena.
3. Fivizzano
Fivizzano is the most historically layered of the three towns. The Medici defence walls date from 1540 — the town was strategically important enough to warrant fortification by Florence. A Baroque fountain anchors the main square, and the palazzo of Arcadian Labindo is among several noble buildings that speak to a period of real wealth and influence. The town produced notaries, doctors, jurists, and scholars in numbers disproportionate to its size.
Most significantly, Jacopo da Fivizzano established what is considered Italy’s first printing house here in the 15th century — an early outpost of the technology that would spread from Gutenberg’s Germany through the humanist networks of northern Italy.
Near the town centre, the Verrucola Castle is one of the finest examples of a Malaspina fortification in the valley and currently serves as the residence and studio of sculptor Pietro Cascella. The surrounding area takes in the Ceserano valley with its vineyards and farms, the Sassalbo mountain village just below the Cerreto pass, and the Frignoli Botanical Gardens. Fivizzano sits at the edge of both the Apuan Alps Regional Park and the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano National Park, making it a practical base for hiking into either range.
Food and Foraging in Lunigiana
Lunigiana has one of the most distinctive food cultures in northern Italy, shaped by its isolation and mountain environment. Testaroli and panigacci — ancient flatbreads cooked on terracotta discs over fire — are the edible symbols of the region. Read our guide to cooking with fire: testi and testaroli to understand how this tradition works, and see what panigacci are and where to eat them for the best spots across the region.
The forests of Lunigiana are also exceptional foraging territory. In autumn, porcini mushroom hunting in Borgotaro and Lunigiana is a serious pursuit — the Borgotaro IGP porcini is one of Italy’s most prized wild mushrooms. And uniquely, Lunigiana produces Italy’s only DOP honey, made from the wildflowers of the Apennine valleys.
Experiences and How to Get Here
If you are arriving from the coast, Lunigiana is easily accessible from La Spezia. A popular option is the shore excursion from La Spezia: truffle hunt and vineyard tasting in Lunigiana, which combines both in a single day. For those who want to stay longer, Agriturismo Montagna Verde offers an authentic base for exploring the valleys and food traditions of the region. For a broader journey that connects the coast with the countryside, Coastal to Country: Northern Tuscany and Liguria maps an ideal itinerary.
For the full picture on the region, read our complete guide to Lunigiana.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Lunigiana famous for?
Lunigiana is known for three things: its medieval hilltop villages and Malaspina castles; the Via Francigena, the pilgrim road from Canterbury to Rome that crosses the region at Pontremoli; and a distinctive food culture based on ancient flatbreads (testaroli, panigacci), porcini mushrooms, and Italy’s only DOP honey. The Museum of the Statue-Stele in Pontremoli — home to prehistoric stone sculptures found across the valley — is also unique to the region.
Is Lunigiana part of Tuscany?
Administratively, most of Lunigiana falls within the Province of Massa-Carrara in Tuscany. But historically and geographically it is a distinct region — a river valley at the junction of Tuscany, Liguria, and Emilia-Romagna — with its own food culture, dialect traditions, and political history shaped more by the Malaspina family than by Florence. It is technically Tuscan but does not feel or cook like the Tuscany of Siena and Florence.
How do you get to Lunigiana from Florence or La Spezia?
From Florence, Pontremoli is approximately 2 hours by car via the A11 and A15 motorways, or around 2.5 hours by train with a change at Parma or Pisa. From La Spezia, Aulla is around 30 minutes and Pontremoli approximately 45–50 minutes by car on the A15. Direct regional trains also run between La Spezia and Pontremoli in under an hour.
What is testaroli?
Testaroli is one of the oldest pasta forms in Italy. The batter is poured onto a terracotta disc (testo) over an open fire and cooked like a thick crepe, then cut into pieces and briefly boiled before serving — typically with pesto, or with olive oil and pecorino. It is found almost exclusively in Lunigiana and the neighbouring Ligurian valleys of La Spezia. Eating it in the region where it is made, cooked over a wood fire, is a significantly different experience from any restaurant version.
When is the best time to visit Lunigiana?
Spring (April to June) for mild weather and the landscape at its greenest. Early autumn (September to October) for the porcini mushroom and chestnut seasons, and for the grape harvest in the Ceserano and Colli di Luni vineyards. The Medievalis festival in Pontremoli takes place in summer (typically July or August) and is worth timing a visit around. Winter is cold but quiet, and the caves at Equi Terme and the castle circuit are open year-round.
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