Tour of Motorvalley Panini Collection Modena Emilia Romagna

by Marcelo Pinto — June 2012

The Motor Valley runs through the valley, crossing via Emilia into the Modenese countryside, where the Hombre farm is located. 330 hectares, 500 cows, all managed by a young farmer from the lowlands, Matteo Panini. He considers himself the last olive on a tree planted many years ago. He is Umberto’s son – the same Umberto who, together with his brothers Benito, Franco and Giuseppe, invented Panini stickers, cultivated the land, and built a passion for motors.

Modena’s history in the motor vehicle industry

When people ask how Enzo Ferrari or Modena became so important in the motor vehicle industry, Matteo’s answer is simple: Modenese people come from the land, and once only cattle, horses and men were needed. “Then the steam engine was invented; after that, the internal combustion engine was developed, and thus the tractor was born. This made it possible for Modena to grow all at once in both the agricultural and mechanical sectors. That’s how the role of the metalmezzadro was born – a person who is both a farmhand and a factory worker. Enzo Ferrari needed a metalmezzadro.”

So the Panini motorcycle and car collection started with tractors. There is a Landini from 1934 – one of the best according to Matteo, and still running. This is where the legend began: tractors were the raw material, carved down until the most beautiful cars in the world emerged.

The Panini collection

The collection has three branches. The first is the Maserati collection, widely regarded as one of the most significant in the world. The second is a group of vehicles that Umberto Panini recovered when owners simply left them behind. The third is a collection of roughly a hundred motorcycles – the machines people once started with.

The Maserati collection

Matteo begins with a Maserati Moto – not everyone knows there was a Maserati motorcycle operation in Modena. His father worked there early on, managing the Experience Department: riding motorcycles until they broke, much like a test pilot.

Then came the cars. A 1958 Eldorado, built specifically for the ice cream brand “Camillino Eldorado” as a marketing exercise – a large cream-white car with an 8-cylinder 4200 cc engine, once driven by Stirling Moss. The 250F, the single-seater that defined Formula One in the 1950s, the car Fangio drove to the World Championship. Maserati fitted a 12-cylinder 2500 cc engine into it – an extraordinary piece of engineering for 1957. When asked why the tachometer is installed in reverse, Matteo explains: the driver must look ahead, so the pointer needs to be straight up at 6,000-6,200 rpm – when it’s vertical, you change gear.

Then there is the Maserati Birdcage. Its frame is built from 200 steel tubes forming a reticular structure – birdcage in English. With only 22 examples built, this car made Maserati a dominant force in the World Sportscar Championship, which at the time rivalled Formula One in prestige. Matteo says he has driven it, and still does.

Maserati’s challenge

Along the stairs to the second floor hangs a giant poster: a photograph from 1926. Alfieri Maserati sits in the first car the company ever built, surrounded by staff who look genuinely proud. Matteo calls it “engineering pride”: “These men had no money and challenged Bugatti, Auto Union, Alfa Romeo. We shouldn’t forget Mussolini was behind Alfa Romeo, just as Hitler was behind Mercedes. And starting from Bologna, they took them on.”

Cars and bikes

There is also a Stanguellini. Matteo’s father worked as a pipefitter for Stanguellini, so one had to be in the collection. The Stanguellini museum – a few kilometres away in Modena – is worth a separate visit.

The collection is not only cars and motorcycles. Matteo shows a military bicycle used by light infantry: a folding mountain bike with front and rear shock absorbers. By swapping the wheels you can change the gear ratio. He likes to think the person who designed it wanted it to be unbreakable.

See where the food actually comes from.
The Emilia Delizia food tour takes you inside working Parmigiano, balsamic, and ham producers — rated 4.9 stars on TripAdvisor.

Motorcycles

The second floor is devoted to motorcycles: the Guzzino, the Formichino, the Ducati Cruiser (designed by Ghia – a rare piece), the Galletto, a Lambretta, the Delfino Motom, the Aquilotto. There is also a row of British machines – Norton, AJS, BSA. In Italian, Matteo notes, BSA was read as “Bisogna saperci andare” (you have to know how to ride it) or backwards as “Anche senza benzina” (even with no fuel).

Other significant pieces

Among the British items is a Welbike – the parachute-drop bicycle, designed to fold into a container mounted under an aircraft’s wing. There is a Messerschmitt car that genuinely resembles the cockpit of the aircraft it takes its name from. A torpedo-shaped Lambretta that Matteo estimates could reach 200 km/h. And a Lotus leaning against a wall, apart from the rest.

When asked whether the collection has grown too large, Matteo is straightforward: “Maybe, but my father is from that generation. He didn’t pay anything for them – people would call and tell him to come and pick them up, and so he did.” The collection is best taken slowly, in small doses.

The Hombre organic dairy farm and Parmigiano Reggiano

The last stop is the farm itself. 500 cows, producing 12 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano every day. Matteo draws a line between motors and land: “Motorcycles, engines, wheels of Parmigiano – you recognize them all from their sound.” Engineering, he adds, is involved in both. A hammer has different weights; depending on weight and placement, it gives different feelings and vibrations. Which is, perhaps, why this is the land of mechanics and motors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Panini Maserati Collection free to visit?

Yes, entry to the Umberto Panini Motor Museum is free. However, visits must be arranged in advance by appointment, particularly for groups.

Where is the Hombre Farm and Panini collection located?

The museum is at Via Corletto Sud 320, 41100 Modena, at the Hombre Farm just outside the city centre. It is easily reached by car from Modena or Bologna.

What are the opening hours of the Panini collection?

The museum is open Monday to Friday, 9:00 AM-12:30 PM and 2:30 PM-6:00 PM. An appointment is required before visiting.

What cars are in the Umberto Panini Maserati collection?

The collection includes 19 historic Maserati models. Among the most significant are the 250F Formula One car (driven by Fangio to the 1957 World Championship), the Birdcage Tipo 61, and the 1958 Eldorado – a one-off car with an 8-cylinder engine driven by Stirling Moss. The collection also includes Maserati motorcycles and a wide range of other vintage vehicles and motorcycles.

Can I visit the Parmigiano Reggiano farm at Hombre?

Yes. The Hombre Farm produces Parmigiano Reggiano and the dairy operation can be visited alongside the museum. It is a practical way to combine both experiences in a single morning.

Who is Matteo Panini?

Matteo Panini is the son of Umberto Panini – one of the brothers who founded the Panini sticker company – and the current manager of the Hombre Farm. He oversees both the farm and the motor collection his father built over decades.

How do I get to the Panini collection from Bologna?

The Hombre Farm is approximately 45 minutes from Bologna by car. Take the A1 motorway towards Modena, exit at Modena Sud, and follow signs towards Marzaglia. From Modena city centre it is around 10 minutes by car.