Travel Tips

Unveiling the Charm of a Unique Italian Riviera Village

Perched on the ruggedly beautiful coastline of the Italian Riviera lies Vernazza, one of the five scenic villages that collectively form the UNESCO World Heritage site of Cinque Terre. Vernazza, arguably the prettiest of them all, is quite simply a traveler’s dream with its pastel-colored houses cascading down to the azure sea, punctuated by the picturesque natural harbor – a perfect setting for the festivals happening here.

Festivals – The Window into Vernazza’s Rich Cultural Tapestry

A long-standing Vernazza tradition, dating back centuries, is the unique and vibrant celebration of local festivals. What is special about Vernazza and its people is the ability to perfectly merge tradition and fun during the famous festivals held in the town. Embracing the lively spirit of Vernazza’s festivals is a culturally enlightening and enriching experience, that paves the way for an amicable and genuine interaction with the locals.

Undoubtedly, the most significant time to visit Vernazza is during the Festival season. The Festival of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, the patron saint of Vernazza, is one such event celebrated on July 20 each year, where the entire village transforms into a jubilant playground with processions, music, fireworks, and food.

Vernazza also hosts the vibrant Fishermen’s Festival, usually held in August, taking the town’s seafood legacy to a new high. Tourists can witness the town’s fishermen flaunting their skills and blessing their boats, bearing testimony to the deep-rooted maritime tradition of Vernazza.

The Culinary Extravaganza – Vernazza’s Seafood Legacy

The richness of the Ligurian Sea surrounding Vernazza is mirrored in the town’s cuisine, deeply rooted in abundant fresh seafood and local flair. The festivals are not just about music, dance, and processions but a sensory overload where flavors play a conspicuous role.

During the festivals, the air wafts with enticing aromas of seafood delicacies like Acciughe al limone (anchovies with lemon), stuffed mussels, fried calamari, and frutti di mare (fruits of the sea) pasta. Interweaving the culinary experience with the local history, these dishes tell a tale of the time-honored fishing practices of the villagers and their absolute devotion to the bounty of the sea.

Welcoming Piazza Marconi as the Heart of Festival Celebrations

The beating heart of Vernazza where the revelries of the festivals thereby unfold is undoubtedly the Piazza Marconi. This delightful square dotted with alfresco dining options, offers a breathtaking view of the village’s natural harbor and serves as the perfect venue for seaside festivities.

Historical Allures Worth Exploring

While the festivals are an exceptional draw for tourists, Vernazza’s historical allure complements the festival experience. History aficionados can explore the stunning Santa Margherita d’Antiochia Church, built in 1318, with its distinct Genovese architectural style. The medieval Doria Castle with its cylindrical tower, a high vantage point, provides an unparalleled panoramic view of the village and the surrounding Ligurian Sea.

Conclusion

Vernazza, with its beautiful blend of tradition, culture, and natural beauty, is an unparalleled experience during its festive season. It invites the travelers to immerse themselves in the palpable spirit-filled with enduring traditions, delectable Seafood treats, and authentic local culture. Time does certainly seem to stop, and any traveler stepping into Vernazza’s festive world will veritably start living and breathing the captivating rhythm of this charming Italian Riviera village.

Italy, with its scenic landscapes, effortlessly blends urban hustle with pleasant tranquility. Among Italy’s remarkable cities, Corniglia, perched on a small hilltop within the Ligurian province, effortlessly stands out. The smallest and most elevated of the Cinque Terre’s five towns, Corniglia is severed from its waterfront, unlike its siblings. One historic site of interest that stands prominent is Corniglia’s famous staircase, Lardarina.

The Lardarina: Step Up to the Challenge

Constructed with an aim to connect the railway station to the quaint town above, the Lardarina is a lengthy brick flight of 382 steps. Climbing these is no mean feat, especially during the summer months. However, the reward is well worth it as travelers are treated to breathtaking panoramas of terraced vineyards and crystalline blue seas. The Lardarina, aside from being a physical endeavor, is also a journey through the history of this small, serene Italian town. Don’t forget to carry a bottle of water!

Historical Threads

Corniglia’s rich past is deeply ingrained in its art, architecture, and lifestyle. Originating from the Roman Era, Corniglia’s endurance has enabled it to embrace various cultural transformations. Traces of this historical tapestry can be found scattered throughout the town, from the Church of San Pietro, a gothic structure blended harmoniously with Ligurian architecture, to the Oratory Santa Caterina, standing tall with its baroque style of architecture.

Culinary Treasures

No Italian journey could ever be truly complete without indulging in its innate cuisine culture. Post your climactic ascent up the Lardarina in July, cool down with a tempting “granità al limone”, a local semi-frozen dessert made from sugar, water, and refreshing lemons.

As evening descends and you find your stride amidst Corniglia’s narrow roads, seek out a local trattoria to savor the legendary Ligurian cuisine. Relish dishes like trofie pasta served with pesto, made from the wonderfully fragrant local basil, or enjoy a local variety of anchovies, a traditional favorite that is often caught fresh by the town’s fishermen. Don’t miss out on the region’s white wines which bear a unique flavor profile due to the terraced vineyard cultivation method.

Attractions Galore

Take your time to explore the quaint corners of Corniglia after your conquest of the Lardarina. Escape the blazing sun in the cool embrace of Guvano Beach, hidden between cliffs and vineyards. Or lose yourself in nature’s bounty at the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre, a testament to this region’s rich biodiversity.

July in Corniglia is a remarkable blend of warm colors, rich tastes, deep history, and lofty aspirations – quite literally if you aim to conquer the Lardarina. This seaside siren, with its unique positioning on Liguria’s cliffs, offers a different perspective on the Italian summer, one that mixes adventure, relaxation, and cultural immersion. When it comes to planning your next Italian vacation, don’t just set your sights on the popular cities. Instead, step up to summer like never before and embark on an unforgettable journey in Corniglia.

Manarola – the quaint, picturesque hamlet steeped in tranquillity, blooming with vibrant colors and serenading stories of ancient folklore, is a must explore destination for any travel enthusiast, but especially for photographers. Nestled in the heart of the Cinque Terre region in Italy, Manarola offers breathtaking panoramas of summer seascapes, narrating tales of primal beauty with every click of the camera.

The allure of Manarola lies in its simplicity – time-honored houses radiant in multitudes of pastel shades, winding cobblestone paths leading to foregone vineyards, shimmering azure seas that harmonize with the sky at the horizon, and the melodic lullabies of the waves lapping against the rugged coastline, it’s pure magic. Profusion of these elements in the frame constructs fascinating contrasts and subjects for a travel photographer.

As dusk descends, the sun paints the sky in hues of crimson and gold, the landscape transition from day to night is a spectacle to behold, and a delight for photographers to capture. The postcard-perfect view of the village tucked under the majestic cliff, lit up with twinkling lights and reflected on the pristine waters below, is every photographer’s dream.

But the immense beauty of Manarola isn’t just limited to its landscapes. One cannot explore the city without sinking their teeth into the culinary treasures it offers. Traditional Ligurian dishes, nurtured by the region’s rich history and sparked by the freshness of local produce, make for fantastic food photography opportunities too.

Pesto lovers should not miss the chance to capture the making of this green, fragrant delight, crafted in the traditional mortar and pestle method in Manarola. The local vineyards produce some exquisite wines, most notably the Sciacchetrà, a sweet wine unique to the region. The sight of meticulously arranged vineyard terraces is another canvas for photographers.

A deep dive into Manarola’s history offers a prolific playground for photographers. The Gothic-style San Lorenzo Church, with its distinctive rose window representing the Wheel of Fortune, offers an elegant backdrop that hails from the 14th century. Manarola’s ancient historical alleyways and well-preserved stone houses whisper stories of yesteryears, each a unique storyboard waiting to be captured on camera.

As you explore further, you will come across the ‘Via dell’Amore’ or Lover’s lane – a scenic trail between the regions of Manarola and Riomaggiore. With views of choppy waves crashing against cliffside and steep terraces, the road unfolds unparalleled perspectives that make for unique photographic compositions.

Manarola, with its enticing summer seascapes, promises a treasure trove of vistas to capture for both budding and seasoned photographers. It offers a perfect mix of travel, food, and history tightly knitted into one stunning landscape. Yet, beneath its photographic charm lies an invitation to experience, participate and lose oneself in the simple yet profound joys of Italian life.

To truly encapsulate Manarola’s essence, one must engage with its beauty beyond just the viewfinder. So, arm yourself with your camera, but also an eagerness to immerse in Manarola’s rich and varied tapestry, and make your summer a photographic journey to remember.

Culled from the arresting beauty of the Cinque Terre National Park, Riomaggiore is a serene Italian village that steals the show with its vividly colored houses, historical treasures, culinary delights, and some of the best wines Italy has to offer. A picturesque embodiment of Italian charm, this Cinque Terre village in the La Spezia region brims with unseen allure that comes alive especially in the merry month of May.

Riomaggiore: An Overview

Riomaggiore, carved into the rugged terrains of the Italian Riviera, is the largest among the five villages of the Cinque Terre. The village unfolds itself in a cascade of colourful houses perched compellingly on the steep terraces against the backdrop of cerulean Ligurian Sea. Its name “Riomaggiore” is derived from the Rivus Maior, the stream that once flowed through the town before being covered.

Hidden Treasures of Riomaggiore in May

May arguably offers the most amicable conditions for an intimate exploration of Riomaggiore. The weather is mild and pleasant, and the summer crowd hasn’t quite arrived yet, making it the perfect time to experience the village in its most authentic form. So let’s uncover some of Riomaggiore’s hidden gems.

1. Historic Edifices

Starting with the colossal Castello di Riomaggiore, this imposing hilltop fortress offers panoramic views of the village and sea. Built by the Marquis Turcotti in the 13th century, it showcases the strategic importance of Riomaggiore in the medieval times. Quite discreetly tucked away in the twisty lanes is the Church of St. John the Baptist. Erected in the 14th century, its gothic facade alludes to an intriguing past.

2. Secret Spots

Venture off the beaten path and find yourself in the blissful solitude of the village. Embark on the lesser-known, yet exhilarating hiking trails such as the Sentiero del Terzo Binario. This little-known path leads you to mesmerizing views of the sun setting over the deep blue sea. Via dell’Amore (The Path of Love Tunnel), once a secret, is another romantic spot to explore.

3. Food and Wine

An exploration of Riomaggiore would be incomplete without soaking in its culinary magic. In May, the fishing season is at its peak, bringing the best delightful seafood including anchovies, a local specialty. These are best served with a glass of Sciacchetrà, a rare passito-style dessert wine produced exclusively in Cinque Terre. To connect more closely with the local viticulture, visit the local Cantina 5 Terre. Here, you can participate in wine tasting and revel in the beauty of the sprawling vineyards.

Riomaggiore, with its hidden treasures, proves to be more than just a pretty face. It resonates with history, luxuriates in the culinary world, and embraces the natural world with sprawling terraces and rugged trails. So lose the map, wander, and find yourself captivated in Riomaggiore’s captivating charm in the peaceful month of May. You are sure to come away with a suitcase full of precious, unforgettable memories.

Mantua, or Mantova, as it is known in Italy, is a hidden gem located in the Lombardy region, edging the southeastern borders of Emilia Romagna. A UNESCO World Heritage city, Mantua holds a rich tapestry of history, culture, and fine cuisine, making it an enticing location for travelers looking for intricate architecture and authentic Italian gastronomy.

Just a short drive southeast from the bustling food-centric city of Parma, Mantua offers a serene escape steeped in Renaissance beauty. As you approach the city, you will be greeted by three artificial lakes that were created during the 12th century – a dramatic prelude to the architectural splendor that lies in the heart of the city.

Mantua’s Historical Marvels:

As you stroll through the scenic streets of Mantua, the Gonzaga family legacy’s influence – a lineage that once ruled Mantua – is much apparent. The family’s power and wealth during the Renaissance era greatly contributed to the city’s architectural grandeur.

The city’s main attraction, Palazzo Ducale, is an immense complex of buildings spread over an impressive 34,000 square meters. It includes more than 500 rooms featuring frescoes by famous Renaissance artists, beautiful courtyards, and several gardens. The most notable room is the ‘Camera degli Sposi’ or the Bridal Chamber, painted by Andrea Mantegna, which depicts the Gonzaga family in a celestial setting.

The Mantua Cathedral, restructured by Giulio Romano in the late Renaissance era, and the Rotonda di San Lorenzo, the oldest church in the city, are also must-sees. For art lovers, the Casa del Mantegna, home to famous painter and artist Andrea Mantegna, provides an insight into the life and work of the maestro.

Mantua’s Culinary Mystique:

If Mantua’s architecture serves as a grand testament to its history, its food narrates a tale of legacy passed down through generations. Traditional dishes from Mantua have an intimate connection with the region’s agricultural origins. The fertile Lombardy plain provides plenty of delicious ingredients, which are used to create dishes with unique flavors.

One of the city’s most famous dishes is ‘Tortelli di Zucca’ – stuffed pasta with pumpkin, crushed amaretti biscuits, mustard, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. ‘Risotto alla Pilota’ is another specialty, a comforting dish made with Vialone Nano rice (a PGI product of Mantua) typically served with local salami.

Round off your culinary adventure with Sbrisolona, a traditional crumbly almond cake representing the rustic simplicity of Mantua’s cuisine. It goes perfectly with Mantuan liqueur Nocino, a festive drink crafted from unripened walnuts.

Mantua’s strong links to its agricultural past are evident in the Strada dei Vini e Sapori Mantovani, a ‘wine and taste road’ enabling visitors to explore the local food and wine production in the region.

A visit to Mantua provides a fascinating intersection of history, culture, art, and gastronomy that creates an unforgettable travel experience. Whether you are a connoisseur of art, an enthusiast of history, or a food lover always ready for the next culinary adventure, Mantua ably caters to all tastes. As an oasis of Renaissance beauty and culinary delights, a trip to Mantua is a soothingly timeless sojourn.

Welcome to the enchanting medieval town of Castell’Arquato, nestled in the picturesque landscapes of Emilia Romagna, where time seems to have dipped its toes and opted for a calming standstill. A mere hour drive away from the majestic city of Parma, Castell’Arquato is the perfect place to step off the beaten track and immerse in Italy’s delightful rustic charm.

As you meander through the labyrinth of cobblestone streets in the old part of the town – the heart of Castell’Arquato – or head over to the splendid Piazza Monumenta, it quickly becomes apparent that this place is steeped in history.

History and Architecture:

Castell’Arquato boasts a rich historical tapestry, echoing anthropological narratives dating back to prehistorical times. It’s an architectural paradise with imposing towers, ancient churches, and ruins of splendid castles. Its perched location affords sweeping panoramas over the blooming vineyards and valleys below.

The Colletta Tower, also known as the Visconti Fortress, stands tall on the town’s highest point and offers the most rewarding view, where one can breathe in the scenic beauty of the surrounding region. This 14th-century fortress now serves as a museum where you can explore the ancient bedrooms, kitchens, and armory.

Another notable attraction is the enchanting Collegiate Church of Santa Maria, a Romanesque gem that beautifully encapsulates the simplistic grandeur of early medieval architecture.

Culinary Highlights:

No trip to Emilia Romagna, Italy’s gastronomic heartland, would be complete without a gastronomic sojourn. Castell’Arquato is famous not only for its scenic beauty but also its irresistible food and wine. From creamy cheeses to aromatic cured meats and full-bodied wines, this little town is a culinary treasure trove.

Wine enthusiasts will find themselves enchanted by the flourishing vineyards surrounding the town. The region is particularly known for its sparkling white Ortrugo and the robust Gutturnio red wines. Pay a visit to the local wineries; the passionate vintners will be more than glad to share their heritage, knowledge, and a glass or two!

Stroll around the town, and you’ll discover numerous family-run trattorias serving time-honored recipes that combine fresh local ingredients in a way that will delight your senses. Whether you’re indulging in Emilia Romagna’s signature tortelli pasta stuffed with ricotta and herbs or relishing a slice of crisp, thin-crusted Parma-style pizza, you are bound to be floored by the culinary craftsmanship that this quaint town brings to the table.

In conclusion, Castell’Arquato is more than just a quick pit stop between larger, busier tourist destinations. It’s a magical place offering an immersive journey into Italy’s past, a testament to a time that has gracefully evolved while retaining its authentic charm. Castell’Arquato certainly puts across the idea that sometimes to know the soul of a country, one must journey into its heart, through its lesser-known, undiluted landscapes.

So embark on this beautiful voyage, where history mingles with epicurean adventures, set against the backdrop of mesmerizing landscapes. Trust me, such simplicity touched with fascinating layers of the past offers a respite that is hard to find in the buzzing cities. Castell’ Arquato awaits you to open this beautiful chapter of Emilia Romagna. Come, step back in time!

Surrounded by the striking beauty of Northern Italy, Emilia Romagna is an enchanting region that boasts a rich historical tapestry, dotted with architectural grandeur, and home to some of Italy’s most delightful culinary treasures. For those who seize the opportunity to explore this beautiful realm, a bike trip from the lively city of Parma to the ancient Via Francigena pilgrimage route offers an unequivocal opportunity to delve into the depths of Emilia Romagna’s abundant history, culture and flavour.

Parma – A City Of Many Charms

Parma, a city renowned for its culinary delights including the famed Parmesan cheese and Prosciutto di Parma, not only appeals to food lovers but also to history enthusiasts. The city emanates a historical charm that is hard to resist. The stunning baptistery and cathedral, both of which are testament to the its rich historical landscape, sit at the heart of the city and offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. The Teatro Regio (Royal Theatre), one of Italy’s premier opera houses, offers further exploration into the city’s artistic heritage.

Delving into Emilia’s Delights

A bike ride farther afield will take you to the celebrated Torrechiara Castle located a mere 18 km from Parma. This is a magnificent example of Italian castle architecture which offers a stunning view of the Parma Valley. Reward your morning spent cycling with a hearty Emilian lunch near the castle. Try the classic tortelli d’erbetta, a local pasta delicacy or find yourself in cheese heaven with the rich formaggio di fossa aged cheese.

Cycling the Via Francigena

Fuelled by the delights of Emilian cuisine, re-mount your bike towards the mystical Via Francigena, the ancient trade route that was once tread by traders and pilgrims venturing from Northern Europe to Rome during the middle ages. Along this route, uncover the surreal castle ruins and medieval monasteries that confound the time’s relentless march.

Fidenza, a small town that is a significant part of the Via Francigena pathway holds many surprises. It’s home to the Fidenza Cathedral, an architectural gem that redefines Gothic-Romanesque art. You can find the representation of several ancient stories graced throughout its façade and sculptures.

Cycling towards Piacenza

Piacenza, on the banks of River Po, anchors the end of our ride. Having experienced countless upheavals throughout history, the city stands a quiet witness to centuries past. The Piacenza Cathedral and the Palazzo Farnese make compelling visits, and they serve as footnotes to the city’s resistant spirit.

No day in Emilia Romagna is complete without a gastronomic closer. Piacenza too has its culinary heritage that awaits discovery. The signature Piacenza dish, pisarei e fasò (small dumplings with beans), will round off your historic and culinary adventure.

Biking through Parma to the Via Francigena is a journey that spans centuries, stimulating every sense. Its appeal lies in the rich fabric of history that unravels with every turn of the wheel, the traditional recipes that await in every town, and the modest charm of the region that is truly Emilia’s own. This unique adventure beckons to those willing to see beyond the familiar tourist trails and immerse themselves into the authentic spirit of Northern Italy.

Here’s a toast to the timeless allure of Emilia Romagna!

Located in the northern heartland of Italy, Emilia-Romagna is a melange of rich history, sublime landscapes, and exquisite cuisine. The region reveals a different layer of its grandeur as you move from the gastronomy capital, Parma, to the music city, Cremona, home of the prestigious Stradivarius violins. Let’s embark upon this enthralling journey saturated in music, food, and awe-inspiring history.

Emilia-Romagna’s love affair with delectable food is certainly not a secret. Parma, being its gastronomical epicentre, offers a multitude of culinary treasures. From Prosciutto di Parma—mouth-watering cured ham—to the nutty flavoured Parmigiano Reggiano, the city is an epicurean triumph. Don’t miss out on a guided tour of local family-run farms to witness first-hand the intricate maturation process these culinary masterpieces undergo.

Amid the luxuriance of Parma’s edible delights, the city outpours a rich historical tapestry. Marvel at the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral, adorned with breathtaking frescoes or pay a visit to Teatro Regio—among Italy’s most esteemed opera houses. Round off the Parma chapter with a serene walk along the banks of the River Parma, rejuvenating your senses for the forthcoming musical odyssey.

A 70-km scenic drive from Parma escorts you to Cremona, the cradle of the world-renowned Stradivarius violins. This city, with its mellifluous legacy, has music imbued in its very soul. The sweet strains of a violin are your constant serenade, whether from a window of the Conservatory or from the heart of one of Cremona’s many baroque squares.

The chief attraction in Cremona indisputably is the Museo del Violino. Housing an exceptional collection of antique stringed instruments crafted by legendary luthiers such as Antonio Stradivari and Giuseppe Guarneri, the museum allows you an intimate glimpse into Cremona’s musical lineage. The Stradivarian Library and Archive in the museum are a treasure trove of documents, relics, and original pieces painstakingly conserved, telling tales of the maestro Stradivari’s craft. The visit is bound to strike a chord with music enthusiasts and history buffs alike.

Do spare time for the Torrazzo—the symbol of the city. This 112-metre bell tower, considered the third tallest brickwork bell tower globally, extends a stunning panorama of Cremona, including the snaking river Po.

Hungry after your day of sight-seeing? Tantalize your taste buds with Mostarda Cremonese, a curious concoction of preserved fruits and syrup flavoured with mustard, served typically with cheese or boiled meats.

In the evening, as Cremona’s rosy twilight drapes the city, attend a live violin recital to conclude your journey on a perfect note. Experience the mellifluous magic of a Stradivarius rendition reverberating through the concert hall confirming that indeed, all’s well that ends well.

This odyssey from Parma to Cremona encapsulates the charismatic essence of the Emilia-Romagna region—an orchestration of scintillating music, rich history, and decadent gastronomy. An experience that would resonate in the hearts of all who undertake it.

Introduction

Nestled in the verdant and fertile landscape of Northern Italy rests the unparalleled Emilia Romagna. Not widely known outside Italy, Emilia Romagna is the culinary heart of Italy, home to world-renowned gastronomic treasures, including the trifecta of Parmesan Cheese, Balsamic Vinegar, and Prosciutto ham. Through the time-crafted streets of Parma and Reggio Emilia, a culinary adventure awaits to charm your senses and palate.

Parma: Land of Parmesan Cheese

Parma, renowned for its art, architecture, and more famously, Parmigiano Reggiano also known as Parmesan cheese is an essential pit stop on our culinary trifecta tour. Parmigiano Reggiano, with its unique aroma and texture, is an emblem of Italian gastronomy.

Venture into rural Parma where local dairies engrossed in their time-honored traditions, weave their magic. Visitors can explore the native dairies and participate in the cheese-making process. Right from the milking of the cows to the aging of the cheese, each step unfolds a fascinating ritual, embodying the sturdiness of this beloved city. Not to forget, these tours end with delightful tasting sessions.

Reggio Emilia: A Balsamic Affair

The journey continues to Reggio Emilia, renowned for another Italian culinary marvel, the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar. Unlike its commercial counterparts, traditional balsamic is produced with only one ingredient – grape must. Aged for a minimum of 12 years, the flavor develops a depth and complexity unrivaled by any other vinegar.

Acetaia, traditional vinegar lofts dotted around Reggio Emilia, welcome tourists to witness the intricate art of balsamic vinegar making. The dark, rich vinegar matures in a series of barrels, its sweet and sour depth intensifying over the years. Amidst the intoxicating aroma of the lofts, one can savor the dense, glossy, and deeply fragrant Balsamic Vinegar -an experience to be cherished.

Parma again: The Prosciutto Promise

The final leg of the culinary tour takes us back to Parma, the land of Prosciutto di Parma or Parma Ham. This air-dried ham is another emblematic food item of the region, appreciated for its delicate and sweet taste. In Langhirano, located in the Parma province, you can find numerous factories opening their doors to tourists to behold the art of prosciutto production. Witness and savor the sweetness and tenderness of the ham, which is a result of a careful process of salting, resting, washing, drying, and aging.

Conclusion

Parma and Reggio Emilia, these gastronomic heartlands of Emilia Romagna offer an exhilarating journey through the world of Parmesan, Balsamic Vinegar and Parma Ham. The culinary trifecta tour not only satiates the palate but also educates visitors about the age-old traditions and fine craftsmanship that goes into making these revered Italian delicacies. So, when in Italy, take a moment to travel off the beaten path, and experience the authentic flavors at the heart of Emilia Romagna – it’s well worth the trip.