Most visitors to Cinque Terre and La Spezia spend their time on the coast. Few realise that just over an hour’s drive inland, through the Cisa pass into the Parma Apennines, they are within reach of some of the most authentic Parmigiano Reggiano production in Italy. This is mountain Parmigiano — Parmigiano di Montagna — made above 600 metres from the milk of cows grazing on mountain pastures, aged longer, and rarely found outside the region.
The Drive from La Spezia
From La Spezia, take the SS62 north through the Cisa pass — one of the historic routes connecting Liguria to the Po Valley, used for centuries by traders carrying Parma ham and cheese to the port. The drive takes around 55–65 minutes and the road climbs through chestnut and beech forest before descending into the upper Taro valley. It is a straightforward route with no motorway required, and the scenery changes completely from the coast within 20 minutes of leaving the city.
From Riomaggiore or Monterosso in Cinque Terre, add around 30 minutes to reach La Spezia first, then follow the same route. Allow a full morning or a half-day for the visit.
Caseificio Borgotaro — Mountain Parmigiano at the Source
Caseificio Borgotaro is a working dairy at Albareto, in the mountains south of Parma. They process 45,000 quintals of milk a year from local family-run mountain farms, producing 22 forms of Parmigiano Reggiano daily using traditional methods. The milk comes from cows fed on self-produced forage — the grasses and herbs of the Apennine pastures — which gives the cheese a flavour profile distinct from lowland production.
Wheels are aged for 12, 24, or 36 months. The 24-month is the standard for everyday use; the 36-month has a deeper, more crystalline character suited to eating in shards or grating over pasta. Mountain Parmigiano aged over 24 months is rarely exported — it is the version the locals keep for themselves.
The caseificio has a shop on site where you can buy directly. Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 8:00–12:30 and 15:30–19:00; Sunday 8:00–12:30. The shop also carries local salumi. The dairy gives access to visiting groups — but all explanations and interaction are in Italian only. If you are travelling as an English-speaking visitor, you will need a guide who can bridge the language and give the visit proper context. That is where we come in.
The Borgotaro Area
The Borgotaro valley is also the home of Fungo di Borgotaro IGP — the only porcini mushroom in Italy with a protected designation of origin. If you visit in autumn (September to November), the local markets and shops will have fresh porcini alongside the cheese. The combination of mountain Parmigiano and local porcini is one of those regional pairings that does not travel well but makes complete sense in context.
Book an English-Speaking Guide
Caseificio Borgotaro welcomes visiting groups and gives full access to the dairy — but the staff work in Italian only. Without a guide, English-speaking visitors can browse the shop and buy cheese, but will miss the production context, the explanation of mountain aging, and the difference between what they are tasting.
If you’d like to combine a Parmigiano-Reggiano dairy visit with a truffle hunt, our truffle hunt from Parma includes both experiences in one half-day, with transport from Parma city centre.
Visiting La Spezia or the Cinque Terre?
Escape the crowds with our
truffle hunt & gourmet truffle lunch & tasting in Lunigiana — a perfect shore excursion from La Spezia.
We provide an English-speaking guide who accompanies you from La Spezia or Cinque Terre, handles all communication with the dairy, leads the tasting with full context, and can extend the day to include other producers in the area. Groups of any size from two people upwards. Get in touch to discuss dates and logistics.
Book an English-Speaking Guide →
Frequently Asked Questions
How far is Caseificio Borgotaro from La Spezia?
Around 55–65 minutes by car via the SS62 through the Cisa pass. No motorway is needed. From Cinque Terre villages, add 20–30 minutes to reach La Spezia first, then follow the same route north into the Parma Apennines.
Can I visit Caseificio Borgotaro without a guide?
You can visit the shop and buy cheese without booking — it is open Monday to Saturday 8:00–12:30 and 15:30–19:00, and Sunday mornings 8:00–12:30. However, the dairy staff work in Italian only. Without an English-speaking guide, you will be able to browse and purchase but will not get explanation of the production process, the aging differences, or what makes mountain Parmigiano distinct. We recommend booking a guide if you want more than a shop visit.
What is mountain Parmigiano Reggiano?
Parmigiano di Montagna is Parmigiano Reggiano produced above 600 metres altitude, from cows raised on mountain pastures. The milk has a different character from lowland production — more concentrated, with flavours from the mountain grasses and herbs. It is aged for the same minimum periods (12 months minimum, typically 24–36) but the result is distinct. Most mountain Parmigiano stays in the local area and is not widely exported.
What is the best age of Parmigiano Reggiano to buy?
A 24-month wheel is the most versatile — good for eating in pieces, in salads, or grating over pasta. A 36-month has more depth, a drier and more granular texture, and a longer finish. It is best eaten in shards on its own or with a drizzle of traditional balsamic vinegar. If you are buying to take home, vacuum-packed pieces of either age travel well.
Can I combine this visit with other food stops in the Parma area?
Yes. The Parma mountains and the Parma plain to the north are home to Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello, traditional balsamic vinegar, and Lambrusco producers. A full day from La Spezia could combine the mountain dairy in the morning with a prosciutto producer or a balsamic acetaia in the afternoon. Contact us to arrange a custom itinerary.
Visitors who want to extend their trip and stay near Parma’s food producers can explore our gourmet B&B farm stay package — two nights at a working agriturismo south of Parma with guided visits to a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy, a balsamic acetaia, and a Prosciutto di Parma factory.
Travelling from Bologna? The Parmigiano Reggiano dairy is also one of the gourmet stop options on our private transfer from Bologna to Cinque Terre — a practical way to combine the dairy visit with onward transport directly to your accommodation in the villages.
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