Stuzzicagente Modena: A Culinary Crawl Through Tradition and Taste

In the heart of Modena, a city renowned for its rich culinary heritage, Stuzzicagente is not just a festival; it’s a celebration of food, culture, and community. Taking place twice a year, in spring and autumn, this food crawl festival invites locals and visitors alike to wander through the historic streets of the city, sampling dishes from some of Modena’s best-loved restaurants. The event transforms the city’s center into a vibrant food and drink trail, offering a sensory experience that captures the essence of the Emilia-Romagna region.

What is Stuzzicagente?

Stuzzicagente, which can loosely be translated as “nibble people,” is an enogastronomic festival where participants purchase tokens, or “gettoni,” to exchange for tasting dishes and beverages from a curated selection of local restaurants. This festival, organized by Modenamoremio, the city’s historic center promotion agency, has grown in popularity over its 17-year history, becoming a beloved tradition for Modena’s residents as well as food tourists. It’s not just about eating; it’s about tasting Modena, a city that has given the world balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Lambrusco.

This autumn’s edition, taking place on September 29, 2024, features 18 local restaurants that will present their signature dishes to festival-goers as they meander through the city streets​(Modena Amore Mio)​(Il Resto del Carlino).

Participating Restaurants and Their Offerings

Among the 18 participating restaurants are some notable names that represent both tradition and innovation in Modena’s culinary scene. For instance, Balzac Bistrot, situated in Piazza Grande, offers a touch of Parisian flair with dishes like steak tartare, pain au chocolat, and freshly made pancakes. Visitors can enjoy these selections while soaking in the majestic views of the city’s UNESCO-listed Duomo​(Sluurpy).

Another standout is BorlenGO!, which specializes in borlenghi, a thin, crispy bread traditionally served in the mountainous areas of Modena and Bologna. Along with borlenghi, BorlenGO! serves other local favorites like tigelle (small flatbreads) and gnocco fritto, offering festival-goers a taste of Modena’s rich, rustic cuisine​(BORLENGO!).

Caffè Concerto, located in the heart of Piazza Grande, is a must-visit for those looking to combine fine dining with live music. The café is known for its wide range of offerings, from fresh pasta to gourmet pizzas, all made using the best local ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano and traditional balsamic vinegar​(

Concerto Modena). The venue also hosts cultural events throughout the year, making it a hub for both food and entertainment.

Other restaurants participating include Dim Sum Gnam, Labeerinto, and Maison Livre, each offering their own unique dishes, from Asian fusion cuisine to craft beers and decadent desserts. Whether you prefer traditional Emilian fare or international flavors, the festival has something to satisfy every palate.

The Festival Experience

The beauty of Stuzzicagente lies not only in the food but in the way it encourages people to explore the city. The festival route takes you through Modena’s most iconic locations, including Piazza Grande, Corso Canalchiaro, and Via Gallucci, allowing visitors to enjoy the city’s rich architectural heritage while sampling its culinary delights​(VIVO MODENA)​(HappeningNext).

Each dish served is a bite-sized portion, allowing participants to taste a wide range of offerings without feeling too full too soon. Along the way, live music and street performances enhance the festive atmosphere, ensuring that Stuzzicagente is as much about entertainment as it is about eating.

The festival is also a competition. Three different juries, including a “popular jury” composed of participants and a “quality jury” of culinary professionals, judge the best dishes. This year, the anti-food-waste app Too Good To Go is part of the jury, highlighting the festival’s commitment to sustainability​(Il Resto del Carlino).

In addition to supporting local restaurants, Stuzzicagente also contributes to charitable initiatives. Leftover food from the festival will be donated to Refettorio Modena, a project launched by chef Massimo Bottura’s Food for Soul, which provides meals to people in need​(VIVO MODENA).

Practical Information: What to Expect and What to Wear

For those attending Stuzzicagente, expect a lively and busy atmosphere, with locals and tourists mingling in the city’s historic streets. The festival typically kicks off in the late afternoon, and while the event is family-friendly, it is wise to arrive early to avoid long lines at the most popular restaurants. Be prepared to walk and stand for most of the event, as the experience is a food crawl through multiple venues.

In terms of attire, dress comfortably and casually. As the event is outdoors, with stops at various restaurants, comfortable walking shoes are a must. Modena’s weather in late September can be warm during the day and cool in the evening, so it’s advisable to wear layers that can easily be removed or added as needed. Since this is a social and somewhat festive occasion, many participants opt for smart-casual outfits, but the focus is on comfort.

Whether you’re a food lover or simply looking to explore the city in a unique way, Stuzzicagente offers an unforgettable experience that combines the best of Modena’s cuisine, culture, and community spirit.

My Opinion of Gatto Verde by Massimo Bottura

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In the world of haute cuisine, few names shine as brightly as Massimo Bottura’s, an avant-garde chef who redefines the boundaries of traditional Italian cooking. Known for his three-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana, Bottura has ventured into a new culinary playground with Gatto Verde, a place that merges artful surroundings with experimental flavors. Here is an immersive recount of my visit to Gatto Verde, a place that serves as both a gallery and a dining room, but one that may not cater to all palates.

An Artistic Haven

Gatto Verde greets you not just as a restaurant but as an art installation, a statement in itself. The ambiance is a sophisticated canvas that Bottura has meticulously crafted, with sculptures and artworks that reflect his passion for contemporary art. The space is dramatic yet intimate, a place where the artistic community could dine amongst Bottura’s creative expressions. In this respect, Gatto Verde stands as a testament to the chef’s belief that food and art are interwoven disciplines.

Culinary Ambition or Overindulgence?

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Bottura’s culinary creations have always walked a tightrope between genius and folly. Gatto Verde’s menu is a bold testament to this, where innovation meets a complexity of flavors. However, sometimes, the ambition on the plate transcends the threshold of what the palate can appreciate. For instance, the dessert featuring caviar and marine water is a bold pairing that may leave the diner more puzzled than pleased. It’s a signature Bottura move to challenge the diner, but this time, it might not land as intended.

Flavor Dissonance

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The pasta arsa, pasta cooked in orange juice, exemplifies Bottura’s relentless pursuit of the novel. It is an intellectual idea, yes, but one whose execution on the palate veers towards the bizarre rather than the brilliant. The result is not the delightful surprise one might expect but an odd, jarring note that disrupts the meal’s harmony.

A Bite of the Forest Floor

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The Borlengo, a traditional thin Italian pancake, is presented with truffle and porcini mushrooms in a way that is meant to evoke the earthiness of the woods. While the intent is clear, the execution is heavy-handed. The flavors are so potent that they overpower rather than complement, akin to taking a bite directly from the forest soil. It’s an example of where less could have been more, allowing the subtleties of the ingredients to shine through.

A Symphony of Creativity or Chaos?

Bottura is a maestro who composes with ingredients, but at Gatto Verde, the symphony sometimes turns into a cacophony. The dishes are thought-provoking, conversation starters that are sure to linger in memory, but not always for the right reasons. It’s food that you contemplate, but contemplation doesn’t always translate to enjoyment.

A Respite in Ambiance

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Despite the culinary turbulence, the restaurant’s atmosphere provides a soothing counterbalance. The service is impeccable, with a staff that navigates Bottura’s complex creations with insight and grace. The interior’s mood is a refuge, inviting diners to relax and absorb the surroundings, offering a respite from the challenging menu.

Final Thoughts

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Gatto Verde is undoubtedly a place of beauty, a testament to Massimo Bottura’s unending quest to push boundaries. However, it’s a reminder that artistry in cuisine is a delicate balance, and what is intellectually stimulating may not always be palatably pleasing. Gatto Verde is Bottura’s canvas, but whether the painting is a masterpiece or a muddled composition is in the eye—or rather, the palate—of the beholder. For those willing to explore the edges of culinary art, Gatto Verde is a must-visit. But for those seeking comfort in the familiar, this may not be your sanctuary.

In the end, Gatto Verde is a dining experience that reflects Bottura’s philosophy: food as a form of art, challenging, evocative, and unapologetically bold. It’s not a place for everyone, but it is a place that everyone will have an opinion about—a striking endeavor by a chef who never ceases to surprise.


A Comprehensive List of All Massimo Bottura’s Restaurants in Modena

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When it comes to contemporary Italian cuisine, few names resonate as profoundly as Massimo Bottura. The culinary maestro, renowned for intertwining tradition with avant-garde innovation, has firmly established Modena as a global gastronomic destination. Here’s a comprehensive list of Massimo Bottura’s restaurants in Modena that have reshaped the city’s culinary landscape.

  1. Osteria Francescana
    Undoubtedly the jewel in Bottura’s crown, Osteria Francescana has been twice crowned the world’s best restaurant in the “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” ranking. Nestled in the heart of Modena, this three Michelin-starred restaurant offers an unforgettable dining experience that intertwines tradition with modernity. Each dish narrates a story, whether it’s the evolution of Parmigiano Reggiano or an abstract representation of a walk in the Apennine woods.

Some of its iconic dishes include “Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart,” “The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna,” and “Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano.” These creations showcase Bottura’s ability to transform classic Italian flavors into contemporary culinary masterpieces.

Osteria Francescana offers more than just exceptional food; it provides an immersive experience that blends art, culture, and hospitality. The restaurant’s ambiance is enhanced by contemporary art pieces, reflecting Bottura’s passion for art as well as gastronomy.

The restaurant’s reputation extends beyond its culinary achievements. Bottura has also used his platform to promote social causes, such as through his non-profit organization, Food for Soul, which addresses issues of food waste and social inclusion.

For more details, you can visit their official website or check out the latest reviews on platforms like Michelin Guide or The World’s 50 Best Restaurants​ (MICHELIN Guide)​ (50B – Restaurants – GLOBAL)​ (Wikipedia).

Dining at Osteria Francescana is a premium experience, with the tasting menu priced at €350 per person, and an optional wine pairing available for an additional €240. À la carte options range from €80 to €150 for main courses, while desserts are around €60 each. The overall cost typically ranges from $305 to $330 per person, depending on your selections

  1. Franceschetta58
    While Osteria Francescana offers a fine-dining extravaganza, Franceschetta58 is its laid-back sibling. This space is where Bottura experiments, breaks down, and reconstructs traditional Italian recipes into contemporary masterpieces. With a more casual ambiance, it offers a dynamic menu that changes regularly, ensuring diners are always in for a delightful surprise.

Franceschetta58, the more relaxed counterpart to Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, offers an accessible yet innovative dining experience in Modena. The bistro, housed in a renovated tire shop, is known for its eclectic decor and modern approach to traditional Emilia-Romagna cuisine. The dynamic menu features both seasonal and classic tasting options, typically priced under $100 per person. Recent reviews praise the restaurant’s blend of creativity and comfort, highlighting the quality of the dishes, such as the Tortellini in Parmesan Cream, and the welcoming, informal atmosphere. Franceschetta58 is celebrated as a place where tradition meets contemporary culinary innovation, providing a more approachable way to experience Bottura’s renowned culinary style​

  1. Casa Maria Luigia
    While primarily a guesthouse, Casa Maria Luigia showcases Bottura’s gastronomic excellence in a pastoral setting. Located a short drive from Modena’s city center, this 18th-century estate offers a curated dining experience for its guests. The menu often includes historic dishes from Osteria Francescana. Furthermore, the culinary journey here is heightened with immersive experiences like wood-fired feasts and cold-smoked delicacies, helmed by talented chefs like Jessica Rosval.

Casa Maria Luigia, an 18th-century estate located just outside Modena, offers a unique blend of luxury accommodation and exceptional dining experiences curated by Massimo Bottura. This guesthouse is more than just a place to stay; it’s an immersive experience in Bottura’s world of gastronomy. Reviews frequently highlight the property’s stunning design, impeccable service, and the intimate, communal dining events where guests can savor iconic dishes like the “Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano,” often served in a convivial atmosphere.

Guests often rave about the personalized touches provided by Bottura’s wife, Lara Gilmore, and the overall ambiance that makes the stay feel more like visiting a friend’s exquisite country home rather than a typical hotel. The culinary offerings, including dishes from the renowned Osteria Francescana, are consistently praised as being both innovative and deeply rooted in Emilia-Romagna’s rich food traditions.

The estate’s peaceful, pastoral setting combined with Bottura’s world-class cuisine creates a memorable experience that many reviewers describe as the highlight of their travels in Italy​

  1. Il Gatto Verde
    The latest buzz in Modena’s culinary scene, Il Gatto Verde or “The Green Cat,” is Bottura’s venture into sustainable dining. Though much about this restaurant remains shrouded in delightful anticipation, early indications suggest that it aims to be one of the world’s most eco-friendly dining establishments. With its name resonating with a historic Modenese locale, expectations are high for a dining experience that merges the best of old and new.

The design of Il Gatto Verde reflects its surroundings, incorporating natural materials like wood and stone in green and earthy tones, and is adorned with contemporary art pieces. Chef Jessica Rosval leads the kitchen, promising a menu that fuses local traditions with international flair, featuring dishes like “Cotechino Sangue di Drago” and “Agnello da Montreal a San Damaso.” The restaurant officially opens on September 20, 2024, and will be a key destination for those looking to experience Bottura’s creative and sustainable culinary vision​

Il Gatto Verde is located near the Acetaia Maria Luigia, a carefully renovated space that not only houses the restaurant but also 1,400 barrels of traditional Modena balsamic vinegar. This setting enhances the dining experience by connecting guests to the rich culinary heritage of the region. The Acetaia itself is a blend of history and contemporary art, featuring installations by renowned artists such as Ingo Mauer, Kehinde Wiley, and Olafur Eliasson.

The art within the Acetaia and the restaurant plays a significant role in creating a unique atmosphere. Works by American conceptual artist Mike Bidlo, including pieces like “Not Pollock,” “Not Stella,” and “Not Warhol,” add a layer of intellectual engagement, mirroring Bottura’s culinary philosophy of blending tradition with innovation. Additionally, multimedia works by artists such as Jack Pierson and Franco Vaccari, as well as sculptures by Sandro Chia and Jim Dine, further enrich the space, making a visit to Il Gatto Verde not just a culinary journey but a cultural one as well.

This combination of art, history, and sustainable dining practices makes Il Gatto Verde a distinctive destination that resonates deeply with Bottura’s commitment to creating an environment where every detail contributes to the overall experience​ (Reporter Gourmet)​ (Fine Dining Lovers).

  1. Il Cavallino
    Situated directly opposite Ferrari’s historic manufacturing plant in Maranello, Il Cavallino restaurant has a rich history that dates back to the 1940s when founder Enzo Ferrari would dine there with close associates. Now, in collaboration with the genius of Bottura, the restaurant has undergone a significant transformation, blending the past’s glory with a modern touch. The interiors, curated by designer and scenographer India Mahdavi, pay homage to the Ferrari world, while the menu celebrates Italian tradition, with dishes inspired by Ferrari’s family and Bottura’s signature creativity. Under the watchful eye of chef Riccardo Forapani, a 13-year veteran from Francescana, the new Cavallino is set to offer an unrivaled Italian dining experience.

Il Cavallino, located directly across from Ferrari’s historic manufacturing plant in Maranello, is a restaurant steeped in history and now revitalized by Massimo Bottura. Originally a favorite dining spot for Enzo Ferrari and his close associates, the restaurant has undergone a significant transformation, blending its storied past with contemporary design and cuisine.

The interiors, designed by India Mahdavi, pay homage to the Ferrari brand, incorporating elements that reflect both the racing world and the elegance of Italian design. The menu, curated under the watchful eye of Chef Riccardo Forapani, a long-time veteran of Bottura’s team at Osteria Francescana, offers dishes that celebrate Italian culinary traditions while infusing them with Bottura’s signature creative flair.

Cavallino’s cuisine is a hearty celebration of Emilian tradition with a modern twist, featuring dishes that tell the story of the region’s rich culinary heritage. The restaurant is also adorned with Ferrari memorabilia, making it a true fusion of food and automotive culture, providing diners with a unique, immersive experience that honors both the legacy of Ferrari and the innovation of Bottura​ (Official Ferrari website)​ (MICHELIN Guide).

In addition to these establishments, Bottura’s influence can be felt in various collaborative projects and initiatives in Modena and beyond. From the “Refettorio” soup kitchens that combat food waste and support the needy, to gastronomic events and festivals, Bottura’s touch is pervasive.

Whether you’re a culinary enthusiast eager to embark on a gastronomic pilgrimage or a casual diner seeking to savor genuine Italian flavors, Bottura’s establishments in Modena promise experiences that are both soulful and sensory. Each restaurant offers a unique lens through which to explore Bottura’s culinary philosophy, making them essential stops in the heart of Italy.