The BBC once published an article entitled “Where vegetarianism is an exotic illness” about eating without meat in Bologna. Written by a long-term vegetarian living in the city, it painted the Bolognese as short-sighted meat lovers with no interest in accommodating anyone who doesn’t eat prosciutto. The picture was exaggerated then and it’s more so now. Here is a more accurate account.
What to expect in a traditional trattoria
Do not expect vegetarian options on the menu of a traditional trattoria — and don’t be surprised by this. The cooking at these places is based on exactly what the word implies: tradition. Historically, pork fat was one of the few reliable sources of calories for working people in Emilia-Romagna, and these menus reflect that. A trattoria proudly serving the traditional fare is not going to redesign its kitchen for a single table.
That said, there are vegetarian dishes within the tradition. Tigelle (small round flatbreads) served with local cheese, pinzimonio (raw vegetables with olive oil and salt), and maltagliati e fagioli (pasta offcuts with beans) all appear on menus. For the beans dish, it is worth asking the waiter whether pancetta was used to flavour the sauce — the answer varies by kitchen.
Most restaurants will adapt if you ask
Outside traditional trattorias, most restaurants in Italy are well used to dietary requests. Gluten intolerance, food allergies, vegan and vegetarian requirements are all familiar territory. If a dish isn’t on the menu, asking for pasta al pomodoro is almost always an option. Italians are particular about food and customising orders is commonplace — a table asking for variations is not unusual in any Italian restaurant.
Italy and the Mediterranean diet
If you are vegetarian or vegan in Bologna, it helps to remember that you are in the home of the Mediterranean diet. Pizza Marinara — base, olive oil, garlic — is vegan, cheap, filling, and available at virtually every pizzeria. Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino (garlic, chilli, and extra virgin olive oil) is another reliable option. Southern Italian cooking in particular leans heavily on wheat, legumes, and vegetables: the building blocks were there long before the current interest in plant-based eating.
Bologna also has a number of dedicated vegetarian and vegan restaurants that have opened in recent years, particularly around the university district. The city’s large student population has driven demand, and the offering has expanded considerably compared to a decade ago. An Emilia-Romagna food tour focused on vegetarian and vegan eating is now genuinely possible in a way it wasn’t in the past.
Want to taste Emilia-Romagna's finest products?
Our
half-day food tour from Bologna or Modena visits a Parmigiano dairy, a balsamic acetaia, and a prosciutto producer — transport included.
Italy’s relationship with vegetarianism
With all the mortadella, prosciutto, and cured meats on display, it can seem implausible that Italy has one of the highest rates of vegetarianism in western Europe. Yet surveys consistently show a significant and growing share of the Italian population avoiding meat — driven partly by health, partly by environmental concern, and partly by the fact that the Italian culinary tradition already has a substantial vegetable-based repertoire that requires very little adaptation. The country that invented the Mediterranean diet was never as meat-dependent as its reputation in Emilia-Romagna suggests.
Frequently asked questions
Can you eat vegetarian in Bologna?
Yes, though it requires some navigation. Traditional trattorias are not designed with vegetarians in mind and you should not expect plant-based options on their menus. Most other restaurants — pizzerias, modern osterie, and dedicated vegetarian places — will have options or adapt dishes on request. The university district has a good concentration of vegetarian and vegan restaurants.
What vegetarian dishes exist in traditional Italian cooking?
More than the stereotype suggests. Tigelle with cheese, pinzimonio (raw vegetables with olive oil), pasta e fagioli, ribollita, panzanella, caponata, and most pizza are vegetarian. Always ask whether meat stock or pancetta was used in pasta sauces — this varies by kitchen.
Is it easy to be vegan in Italy?
Easier than it used to be. Pizza Marinara (base, olive oil, garlic) is vegan and ubiquitous. Pasta aglio e olio, most grilled vegetables, and many bean-based dishes from southern Italian cooking are also vegan. Dedicated vegan restaurants exist in most Italian cities. The main challenge is traditional restaurants where butter, eggs, and cheese are embedded in dishes.
How do you ask for vegetarian food in Italian?
“Sono vegetariano/a” (I am vegetarian). “Questo piatto contiene carne?” (Does this dish contain meat?). “È possibile avere la pasta al pomodoro?” (Is it possible to have pasta with tomato sauce?). Italians are generally accommodating once you explain your requirements clearly.
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Thank you so much for writing this article! So glad to know about the vegan options! In fact I even heard that some pizzeria’s now have vegan cheese options! Super cool!
I read that bbc article too and I just was not convinced. My parents had been to Italy twenty years ago and they said that they had found plenty of vegetarian food.